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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 1995 Aero auto & feel that the box is a bit 'lazy' to changedown, & also changes up sooner than I would like for good acceleration. I had the same experience with previous CSE 2.3 turbo (probably the same engine, anyway).

Can the changedown in the box be adjusted to respond earlier, & also stay with the lower gears until higher revs.

I find it particularly frustrating when overtaking at 30-40mph the box takes a while to decide how many gears to drop, leaving me dithering on the wrong side of the road.

Ta

Steve
 

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Steve,
If you hold the throttle peddle further down on acceleration (to the kick-down position)it should make the engine change up (3rd to 4th, etc) at higher revs, and hence hold the same gear for longer - giving better acceleration. Less hard on the throttle will cause change up to occur sooner.

I don't believe that you can influence change down (4th, to 3rd, to 2nd etc), except by using the auto selector lever. But be careful that you do not over rev the engine if you do this. The handbook for my 2ltr Anniversary (LPT) auto states "Do not select position 3 at speeds above 80 mph". This is because changedown occurs immediately! Whereas changes from 3rd to 2nd gear will not cause the actual gears to change until the road speed has reduced to a preset level (45mph for my 2ltr - which cannot be adjusted). Similarly from 2nd to 1st using the auto selector, occurs when road speed reduces to approx 20mph according to handbook.

Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The 'box is functioning fine as you describe, but I wanted to try to make it a little sharper on the acceleration.

I would describe the current characteristic as fine for a touring, but a bit lacking for a 'sporty' drive.

Steve
 

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Steve,

Sounds like a performance enhancement would suit you - which depends on how many bucks you have spare!

The cheepest serious option I have seen is the Abbot Racing ECU upgrade for approx £400 (pounds). This takes a 2lt ECO 150bhp up to 185BHP.

Otherwise, you can get the turbo boost increased (assuming you have an ECO power) just by adjusting the wastegate actuator rod. Which costs nothing if you do it yourself - but just do it one or two turns at a time, and check that overboost cut off doesn't occur after each adjustment.
 

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Ahh.. Just noticed you have an Aero, so just one update.
The auto boxes can't cope well with power in excess of 200BHP.

I note that whereas 2.3 Turbo (manual b/box) come with a standard 225BHP, autos are restricted to 200BHP. Increasing the power, and making use of it, will result in a vulnerable gearbox!

On the other hand, some manuals have been tuned and chipped in excess of 300BHP without significant mishap.
 

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You want your Automatic SAAB Turbo to be sporty? Well for one thing the SAAB 9000 in any guise is NOT a sports car. It's not rear wheel drive. It has more than 2 seats & the engine is in the wrong place. Why buy an Auto if you want the car to be "sporty"? The Saab 9000 Turbo is a fairly quick family nod. That's all. You want sports? Buy an MR2 Turbo!
Just my 2p worth
 

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sorry,but I cannot leave Mels remarks unchallanged,the MR2 is a claustraphobic rice burner with horrible road habits and there is more room in a coffin,as for the BMW I have tried to like them but failed,even if they do have rear wheel drive etc,Qualities I wish my 2.3 turbo had,I am waiting for the V8 rear wheel drive MG,but I am afraid that too has more than two seats.Ah well anyone for a Sprite??
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hmm...or a Tuscan

Have solved problem to some degree, by shifting into 3 on auto early so that box only has to make 1 downshift when required.

Is there likely to be any wear or other implication in this?
 

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I have a 97 Aero auto which has been upgraded by Abbott to about 235/240 bhp. No problems as yet (9 months/10k miles) but advise avoiding full throttle starts and ease accelerator on up change.
You can also achieve an increase in performance by disabling the torque/power limit in lower gears. Pull fuse 9, go for a 5 mile drive and aim for full boost in top gear. You should see the boost guage start to go more into the red but all engine protection will still be available.
Again use some common sense and consideration for the box.
If you like the result, you can make it more specific by cutting the orange wire pin 14 on the lead attaching to your ECU. You will then be able to replace the fuse and regain the other functions. I spliced a switch in here so the mod can be reversed at will.
 

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I have a 97 Aero auto which has been upgraded by Abbott to about 235/240 bhp. No problems as yet (9 months/10k miles) but advise avoiding full throttle starts and ease accelerator on up change.
You can also achieve an increase in performance by disabling the torque/power limit in lower gears. Pull fuse 9, go for a 5 mile drive and aim for full boost in top gear. You should see the boost guage start to go more into the red but all engine protection will still be available.
Again use some common sense and consideration for the box.
If you like the result, you can make it more specific by cutting the orange wire pin 14 on the lead attaching to your ECU. You will then be able to replace the fuse and regain the other functions. I spliced a switch in here so the mod can be reversed at will.
 

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I cannot believe what I'm seeing here.

<Snip>
"the MR2 is a claustraphobic rice burner with horrible road habits and there is more room in a coffin"
<End>

Ok it's Japanese. So who cares where it comes from? The BMW is a Nazi car if we're going to pick holes in a country? BMW's are common as muck too. Every BMW driver thinks they own the road. They really are the pits.

Everybody knows you get bags more for your money with Japanese cars & they're as reliable as the sun continuing to shine. Beat that!

Maybe it is fairly small but I know a number of colleagues on the MR2 List who are WELL over 6 foot tall. Also, If you want space you buy a Shogun or something. I thought we were talking Sports Cars? Sports cars are meant to be small. I'm surprised nobody here mentions the Elise. No I'm not!

Road Habits: The Rev 1 MK II was known for having some bad road manners which were mainly sorted in the Rev II & the Rev III has even better road habits. If I'm going through the twisties then I'd rather be in my MR2 Turbo than the Saab Turbo - that's for sure. The Saab Turbo is quite quick but it's not blistering is it? Come on be honest?As for road holding well it's front wheel drive & suffers from enormous torque steer so I fail to see what you're talking about concerning bad habits?? I'd rather have my MR's road habits any day of the week whilst driving in a spirited manner.

An MG? You cannot be serious? ROFLMAO. So there ARE Hair Dressers here too? Well I don't know about anyone else on the list but I'd NEVER buy a car built at Longbridge or Cowley. Cac build quality & unreliability all yours for a massive amount of money. Not that I have a problem with either Birmingham or Oxford cos as you know, I'm not the one who cares where they come from. Come on! Please!

Tuscans are nice as are a number of TVR's. However, they are wholly unreliable & spend nearly as much time in the garage than out of them. I don't see that being any fun!

The Holden. Mmmm. You got a big wallet then? I hope so. Then as you say there's the possible build quality problems. I'd be more concerned with the MG's myself!

Then there's the drivers who like lots of power. With their Auto boxes. Sorry. What's all that about? You need to be able to decide yourself when it's time to change up/down. Sorry Autos just do not cut it. The Saab is a front wheel drive. Sorry - Great build quality & reliability but they'e pants on the twisties like all big front wheel cars. Try accelerating hard from a standstill & what happens? Nose in the air & tyre squeal. Everybody knows wheel-spin is NOT the way to accelerate hard.

Finally & going back to "Sports Cars" ALL sports cars have two seats. Other cars might be "sporty" but that does not make them sports cars. My original response in this thread was stating that sports cars are Mid-engined, Rear-wheel drive & have 2 seats. Now I've seen that somewhere before. Mid... Rear... 2 seats Oh yes.... MR2. Enough said!
Mal. )
 

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The Saab is a front wheel drive. Sorry - Great build quality & reliability but they'e pants on the twisties

Just an observation, but because they were FWD (not 4WD) the Saabs of yesteryear were particularly successful rallying - able to shake off Porsches, would you believe.

Times have changed, and like I say, just an observation. I think we all like/buy/prefer different cars for our own reasons. I'd like to steer away from vehicular racism as it is not becoming of polite Saab owners and driver.

Ta

/john
 

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This is the lastI put on this thread ,the definition of "Sports Car" is obviosly open to interpretation so I will leave that alone,I recently drove a MR2 from plymouth to birmingham in a howling gail,not a experience I would wish to repeat,side winds affected it more than truck I drive at work.
As for the remarks about MG ,a) There are non built in Cowley And B) If you think the build quality is poor you are several years out of date,the same goes for relieability.
As for speed ,I have never yet found the road to open my 2.3T up and hold it there,so I have only seen 130mph for a very short time.Then again do I need that speed?what I do need and enjoy is the never ending acceleration,with very little torque steer and in three years of hard driving,I have rarely suffered from wheelspin,round the twisties I will keep the Saab,there are many that can keep up but few will better.But best of All Ican do all these things with three other people and the kitchen sink in the car, at least I could if I could get the brakes to work!!
 

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My original comments on this thread were in response to the REAL reason that this thread was posted. Any Saab is not a sports car. Here's the definition as per the dictionary:

"Sports Car - A mass-produced car usually with two seats, having a low centre of gravity and, often, a folding or removable roof. It's steering and suspension are designed for precise control at high speeds on curving roads."

<Snip>
Just an observation, but because they were FWD (not 4WD) the Saabs of yesteryear were particularly successful rallying - able to shake off Porsches, would you believe.
<End>

I believe that. However I am not rallying. I usually travel on roads. Not gravel. As you state John, This is cars of yesteryear. Modern cars today are far superior to most vehicles if not every vehicle of "yesteryear".

<Snip>
I'd like to steer away from vehicular racism as it is not becoming of polite Saab owners and driver.
<End>

Here here John. I never could understand why people call Japanese cars Rice Burners. With all the Japanese cars I've owned I have never burned any rice... Ever!

<Snip>
side winds affected it more than truck I drive at work.
<End>

I refer you back to the above quote for sports car. I think the key words in the quote are "precise control". Now of course if you're driving in a gail then the winds are going to affect every vehicle on the road. Especially if they're driving at speed. However... When was the last time anyone drove in those conditions to be met by a sports car that had blown over onto it's side? ROFLMAO... Now come along. Let's be serious for a minute. You're telling me you'd rather be driving a high-side lorry in a howling gail? I'm sorry but I don't believe that. The steering & suspension are precise so any adjustments made to the vehicle by mother nature are going to be fed back to the driver MUCH better in a sports car than some pitching & wallowing lorry. Or Saab 9000. Remember the sensitivity of the driving experience works both ways. Whilst you felt the car respond to nature you too can enjoy the experience under normal conditions getting all the right feedback IMMEDIATELY that you need it. (Unlike a lot of other vehicles on our roads). Personally I think the reason these vehicles are popular is cos they give more time for the driver to react whilst they fiddle with their mobiles & put lipstick on at 38mph in a 30mph zone. Don't call me a liar now we've ALL seen them haven't we? And then some!!

As to MG Cars. Perhaps the MG isn't made at Cowley. However, the build quality reliability of these cars still leave an awful lot to be desired. I know people in our close that work at Canley. They have bought cars from BL/Leyland/Austin Rover Triumph/Austin Rover Group/Rover Group or whatever you want to call them today & they are absolute rubbish. Not all but some certainly are. So Mike I put it to you... Do you want to spend thousands of pounds & risk getting one of these jalopys? I wouldn't... Thanks! Not even if they then put it right. How have they put it right? - Forget that!

As for reaching maximum speed, well any car can accelerate to terminal velocity on a long enough stretch of straight tarmac. Even yours can. Unfortunately NONE of us drive to work on a runway. Do we Mike? I fail to see the relevance of your comment. I too haven't got to the very end of the acceleration curve on my cars.

Wheel-spin in any front-wheel car while cornering is scarey. VERY scarey! I wasn't talking about wheel-spin on the twisties. What I was trying to convey was that if you try to accelerate hard at low speeds the nose comes up & the chances of wheel-spin occuring will be a lot higher than in my sports car. The front wheel drive delivery system under hard, low-speed acceleration is nothing short of pants. Maybe that was a better way of getting my point across. Apologies for any confusion there.

Full marks for your comments Mike regarding your ability to get three passengers & the kitchen sink in your Saab. Remember I too drive a Saab They are a useful car for carrying all sorts of things aren't they? The thread was never about how much you can get in your car but about the Saab not being a sports car. It isn't. It never will be in any of it's current guises. I was saying if you want a sports car then buy a MR2. Or any other sports car. If you need a car for carrying loads then keep the Saab or whatever you want to drive to carry loads. Why try make the 9000 something it just aint???

You'll remember that I mentioned previously, reliability? Maybe the reason you've never had wheel-spin is cos your brakes are shot & you daren't drive it. So what's up with your brakes then? ;o)

Finally, I would just like to state that I too shalln't be contributing to this thread any further. I am truly sorry if anyone reading this thinks that I am trying to be provocative. It might come across that way but I am merely attempting to get a point across. If you want a sporty car then go & buy a sports car. Don't fiddle around trying to make an automatic more responsive. It's not meant to be. Autos are for cruising.

We enjoy our saabs for a variety of reasons including their robustness & their ability to take what we need (including our kitchen sinks) where we need to take them. I enjoy my sports car for the FUN & genuinly thrilling & responsive ride it gives me.
Mal.
Saab 9000 Turbo )
MR2 Turbo T-Bar ))
 

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In short, I more-or-less agree with you Mal.
My 9k CSE is not a sports car because it has a turbo. It is a safe, dependable hold-all limo.

If I want some fun. speed and performance, I'll use my Suzuki 1200 bandit motorbike. It's horses for courses.
 

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Guys, it doesn't matter what car you drive, if you take the wrong turn you end up on the wrong track! So lets get back on it.

Steve was asking for suggestions on how to improve accelleration with an Auto box on an Aero. Perfectly reasonable suggestion really. Saab Corp recognise that different folks like different levels of accelleration and performance, hence they produce a 150, 175, 185, 200BHp engines (all on Auto Boxes) for their 9000 (depending on market, etc).

Point being, it is perfectly reasonable to want to make ones accelleration a bit 'sportier'.

Which is no reason to suggest he buys a 'sports car' instead!

So I am sure that any further suggestions regarding the original question will be appreciated, along with those already received.
 

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Paul,

I think you too have lost the point of this mail.....

Steve wasn't after a more powerful engine. That's just going to cause more problems putting the power down in the first place.

If you'd actually read the thread then you'd have noted that Steve is interested in increasing the response time his box takes to change down to a suitable acceleration gear. Am I wrong or am I right Steve?

Mal.
 

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Exactly! As addressed in my earlier response regarding use of the selector lever.

As Steve states he wants to improve his 'acceleration'.

And of course a prime way of doing this would be to improve ones BHP, especially if use of the selector lever to hold 2nd or 3rd gear for longer is not sufficient.
 
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