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Right so here is what I have found -










From the diagrams the AMP1 is receiving (should be) a signal from the following - CD player, ICM (control module basically the buttons), EHU (the brains of the operation behind the AC panel) and the CIM (column intergration module).
 

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Of course it might be better to get it plugged into tech 2 by an indy saab garage and let them either force a reboot or diagnose where exactly the problem lies before you rip your car apart
 

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A quick update. I took my car in for a Tech 2 today and nothing came up on the computer. They took the amp out and then worked through the system. The nav box in the boot had jammed and by pressing the eject button several times it rebooted the system and the red light was visible through the amp connector.

After connecting the amp up again, the system worked. Very very simple in the end but if i hadn't have taken it in, i would have never have found the problem and probably would have bought a new amp when it wasn't needed. £45 for pressing 1 button was sounds expensive but a lot cheaper then a broken amp...

Thanks for all your help
 

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So i think i spoke too soon. While the display is now working and sound is coming out, it appears that it is only coming out of the 2 front door speakers and the centre dashboard speaker. The indicators are still not making a noise. Is this likely to be the amp 2 that has broken?
 

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dash 3.5" & rear shelf 4" speakers are powered by the ehu(situated behind the MCC/ACC panel)

door & center dash speakers powered by amp1 under front left seat.

rear 6x9s are powered by amp2
 

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Ok, so i've looked about more on the forums and i don't have 6x9s, just the 4" shelf speakers and i don't have an amp 2. The front door speakers and centre dash speaker are working (all powered by the amp 1 under the passenger seat). The left and right dash speakers and the rear speakers do not work though which are powered by an internal amp in the EHU. It can’t be the amp 2 because i don’t have one (only in the prestige 300 model) so it can’t be that. The left and right dash speakers work with the phone though (it's not the inbuilt phone and rather that runs that the AUX port) so they must work and surely if they work the EHU must be working?

I have checked the fuses in the engine bay, dashboard and in the boot and they are all fine. The Tech 2 on Monday didn't flag up any errors and they just reboot the system which got most of it working. Any ideas what it is and what to do next?
 

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"The left and right dash speakers work with the phone though (it's not the inbuilt phone and rather that runs that the AUX port) so they must work and surely if they work the EHU must be working?"

I have read before that when installing phone kit I.E Parrot kits - these can be installed to come through only certain speakers and there maybe a chance it had been incorrectly installed so you are now only getting the phone through the 4 speakers and music through the 3 speakers.
 

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I have read before that when installing phone kit I.E Parrot kits - these can be installed to come through only certain speakers and there maybe a chance it had been incorrectly installed so you are now only getting the phone through the 4 speakers and music through the 3 speakers.
Maybe but that doesn't explain why the rear speakers are not working especially given that they were before and the fact that the indicators aren't making a noise. I know that the SID speaker can go but i think it is too big of a coincidence to have lots of little problems.
 

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Have a similar issue here, had my car detailed and ...i'm guessing the moist really killed it.

I have no audio nor blinking chimes , radio does not boot up , SID works fine .

I read stuff for almost 12 hours , tried the reboot via fuses , no luck ...where should i start , AMP1 ? removal ? cleaning?
 

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welcome to SS..

what's your fault.
 

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So, after hours of thinking how the heck can I bridge the fibre optics lines in the amp without having to purchase a new one or send it off somewhere so they'll bridge it their way, I found a way to do it. And it only cost me about 30min of my time and $5, if you have the right tools of course.

1. Remove the amp from under the driver seat. Just pull the seat forward as far as it will go and unplug the amp, of course remove the torx screws holding it in.

2. Remove the screws on the side holding the top cover on.

3. Locate the two black fibre optics wires coming from the connector on the housing. They run to the center standing circuit board in the middle of the amp. Twist the locks that are holding the board on and carefully remove the middle board.

4. There are two mirrored finish plates protecting the board. Remove the upper half (the side that is facing the the connectors before removal) you will have to bend the tabs back that are holding it and remove the one side.

5. Inside you'll see the connecting unit where the fibre optics are being held. They are clipped by a black clip on each wire. With needle nose pliers, carefully grab each one and give it a twist to break only the clip. When broken, remove the fibre optic wires.

6. Go to the hardware store and purchase a small box on NM wire clips 1/2" (those are the kind that hold houseing wire to the wall. Kinda u-shaped and have two nails on the ends that can come out)

7. With a #30 drill bit (.128) remove the nails in wither end and drill out the holes with the drill bit to make them a snug fit for the fibre optics wires.

8. With a pair of dikes, cut the clip as close the middle as possible.

9. Line up the holes by inserting the #30 drill bit, insert the cut halves together so the flat part of the clips are facing each other.

10. With a soldering tool, melt the halves together only around the part you cut and the sides. You'll see a gap between the top portion, don't melt that as it will melt it too much and you'll have to start over.

11. After about a minute, remove the drill bit. Your pieces should be melted together. Insert the Fibre optic lines in opposing ends of the clip so they are coming together. It's a little tight fit which is good, this means it will not wiggle loose.

12. Replace the middle circuit board you removed and replace the cover. You can just stick the fibre optic wires in the uiit freely.

13. Plug the amp in and test.

This worked perfectly for me, bridging the connections between the fibre optics and allowing my center console to become alive again. I'll try and get some pictures up of what I did. But I think this explains pretty well.
Just followed your tutorial today and worked like a dream. Thank you for the tip.
 
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