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Fitted or parts only...
New, recon or second hand...

OEM New is silly money- circa £400 plus.
Labour should be around 2 hours max.
(Remove wheel, wheel arch liner, aux belt & PS pump for access)
 

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Recon is a better option, and there are plenty of electrical places that would be able to do this for you at a fraction of the price of a new alternator.

I've even known places to lend a temporary replacement whilst yours is being re-conned.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks lads, I'll also check Euro see what they are.
I'll have to make a few phone calls I think to see who charges what.
I dont think I'll be buying new at that price!
 

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ECP and German & Swedish have a core charge for their alternators... no problem except that they don't normally come with the pulley wheel on, and this often needs an impact wrench to shift it. I couldn't shift mine at home. I would recommend you remove the old alternator first and take it to the branch- the normally have an impact wrench available.

Also, there are different fittings across the range and the length of the shaft varies- as I found out to my cost so it's a good move to sit the old one next to the new and check they are physically the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Again thanks!,

Bubbles.....Yea I'll check it out to see which one it is.
Cause I'm still having this problem of everything going dead when the main light's are turned on.
 

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Axl,

Just paid £270 for a 130A exchange alternator from Eurocarparts. They delivered it free to my local garage. Although slightly larger than the 90A it replaced it fitted fine. Came complete with a pulley. You need to send back your old one for the £70 surcharge to be refunded.

[email protected]
 

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Last time i had an alternator problem,it wasn't charging (but was not making any wierd noises ethier),i just changed the regulator in the back.
Although i had to take the alternator out of the vehicle (which took some time
) it did sort the problem out. Cost £11.16 .
The main diferences between the alternators if i recall were:
5 or 6 ribbed pulleys (all 2.3 90> & 2.0 94> should be 6 ribbed btw)
External fan (behind pulley),or internal fan (enclosed in body) pre 94 should all be external type,94' on should have a choice.
and of course the output,once all the above have been answered it should be a doddle to get the right one

G.

Just paid £270 for a 130A exchange alternator from  [/b]
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Does this sound as if it's the alternator thats going/ready to go.
What I cant understand is that everything else is fine when switched on. It's only the main light's (when switched on) that cause the problem.
 

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Axl - grab a multimeter, and 'Gentlemen, start your engines'. check that you have approx 13.6v across the battery when the engine is running (all elec controls off - lights/heaters etc). this should roughly confirm with the onboard voltmeter.. even with a sick battery, a healthy alternator should maintain near normal voltage if you can get it to start

leave the headlights off; switch on heated rear window/mirrors, fan on full, cigarette lighter, and heated seats.
this load will more than outweigh the headlamp load. if your engine maintains tickover and the voltmeter maintains 13v or more, i would question the need for alternator swapping -
it is one of the less exciting 9000 jobs


this should help isolate the lighting/ignition circuit as your fault.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for all the help!.

I was out tonight and nothing happened
, with all the light's on fogs n all (yes I know, but I was only testing).

But I'll check thing's out tommorrow with the v/m, I think the battery is ok it's not that old.

But this can a very dangerous situation, because as you can immagine, your driving and all's fine you turn the light's on and everything's dead!!.

I know now to turn them just as quick to the side light's, but I cant keep doing that.
 

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Axl, swapping the alternator is a bit of a pig if you can avoid it!

This was the recent catalyst to get me to do timing chains and head because to get to the alternator, you've got to remove the road wheel, the inner wheel arch lining, the serpentine belt and the power steering pump and from memory, the pump bracket.

After a couple of hours getting the alternator off, you're only a couple of dozen timing cover bolts, water pump and crank pulley away from the chains and just 4 nuts on the turbo, 8 bolts on the inlet manifold, 4 bolts on the D.I. cartridge, 14 bolts on the cam cover and 10 bolts on the cylinder head away from the gasket.

Of course, you also get the chance to fit new O-rings everywhere and do an oil and coolant change at the same time cos you'll have needed to drain those. I was amazed that some of my O-rings, particularly on the water pump still sealed, they had gone very hard to the point where they just disintegrated when trying to prise them off.

So, if you're going to remove the alternator, you too might as well do chains and head gasket at the same time. (I now have a leak free car too so don't need the oil drip tray underneath in the garage).

David.
 

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LOL David .. glad to know I'm not the only one like this! I too suffer from "Well, while I'm in here, it's a shame not to..." syndrome

Agreed though, getting the alternator out is no trivial job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Originally posted by David Taylor:
[qb]Axl, swapping the alternator is a bit of a pig if you can avoid it!

This was the recent catalyst to get me to do timing chains and head because to get to the alternator, you've got to remove the road wheel, the inner wheel arch lining, the serpentine belt and the power steering pump and from memory, the pump bracket.

After a couple of hours getting the alternator off, you're only a couple of dozen timing cover bolts, water pump and crank pulley away from the chains and just 4 nuts on the turbo, 8 bolts on the inlet manifold, 4 bolts on the D.I. cartridge, 14 bolts on the cam cover and 10 bolts on the cylinder head away from the gasket.

Of course, you also get the chance to fit new O-rings everywhere and do an oil and coolant change at the same time cos you'll have needed to drain those.  I was amazed that some of my O-rings, particularly on the water pump still sealed, they had gone very hard to the point where they just disintegrated when trying to prise them off.

So, if you're going to remove the alternator, you too might as well do chains and head gasket at the same time.      (I now have a leak free car too so don't need the oil drip tray underneath in the garage).

David. [/qb][/b]
I think not!!, it's not even my car, I know there wont that kind of money getting spent on it.
An alternator, t/chain, h/gasket ect ect, no way! I wouldn't like the bill for that.


Iv'e been think, this problem could it maybe be down to a loose/bad connection/earth somewhere, just a thought.
 

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 Axl - grab a multimeter, and 'Gentlemen, start your engines'. check that you have approx 13.6v across the battery when the engine is running (all elec controls off - lights/heaters etc). this should roughly confirm with the onboard voltmeter.. even with a sick battery, a healthy alternator should maintain near normal voltage if you can get it to start[/b]
Even this is not necessarily so.

I know of a very sudden black box failure on a Motorway - where the electrics went completely dead, was fixed by replacing with another serviceable unit, on the hard shoulder, which was not new by any means. The voltage never read more than 10.9 volts after that, but the alternator itself was still A1. A new black box was fitted after eighteen months, only after the alternator was eventually removed for inspection.

HTH
 

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It most likely is a loose connection.

The bill for the alternator/chains/head etc wasn't too bad, haven't totted it all up but given that there was no labour other than mine, it was parts only.

Alternator - £90 full recon
Timing kit - £133
Head gasket and bolts - £80 (ish, something like that)
Sundry other bits, belts, pulleys, O-rings, turbo gasket etc, probably came to another £100 to £150.
Antifreeze - £22
Oil and filter - £20

Ask me again why I didn't give this to the Saab dealer and the answer would be because last time it was over £2000!
 

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hang on Zaphod.. i said 'should'. the in dash meters are notoriously 'average' in their guessing, giving more of a feel of the car health over time than an instant measure.

you're not telling me this example car had 10.9v across its battery when switched off, for some extended period of time?
i.e. when measured on a proper meter. strange.
 
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