Saabscene Saab Forum - Saab Technical Information Resource banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a bit of a problem!
When accelerating hard in 3rd at about 2800rpm, revs go crazy and car goes nowhere as if it has popped out of gear. If I drive conservatively(
) and move thru the gears leisurely( more
) there is no problem other than no
. Gear change is still smooth, no crunching, but there is definate slipping in 3rd under pressure.
At 140k, I am still on original clutch, the last 22k being at Stage3 so I spose its had a good run!

So is the clutch on its way out, if so how long have I got and whats the best to go for bearing in mind I am at Stage 3 and may yet go a little further? Basically whats the best performance clutch?

Thanks Gents( as there don't seem to be any 9000 females )

Andy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,215 Posts
three choices..(in ascending price )
standard aero clutch..even with 300 plus it should be ok but on the edge
this worked for me for at least 70k of 300 hp..

Ap paddle clutch
bit fierce on take up a kind of on /off clutch but is driveable but not advised if you are doing a lot of stop starts..I believe they last about 50-60 k

sachs sport clutch
normal operation but heavier
handles lots of torque
but expensive
lasts ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,305 Posts
A further note on the AP- they also eat the pressure plate and flywheel; after 50-60k you will need to throw the plate away and have the flywheel resurfaced- but they're cheap at around £170 for the plate, from any AP dealer; lead time circa 6-8 weeks though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
778 Posts
I hate being the bearer of bad news, but I think the Sachs Race Engineering pressure plate (rated for ~600 nm) is no longer being manufactured for the 9000. At least that's what I was told by Mr. Hughes at Gasparatos Saab in Hamburg, Germany. He tried calling several Sachs distributors and finallly spoke, directly, with someone from Sachs, who told him this. The part number, by the way, is 3082 999 740, if anyone wants to pursue this further. There may be a few still sitting on someone's shelf, somewhere, probably in Sweden. The next best option would be to have the stock Sachs pressure plate rebuilt with stronger steel fingers. The stock Aero clutch plate works fine with the up-rated pressure plate - it's the stock pressure plate that's the weak link in the equation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,597 Posts
I have managed to get my 112k mile std saab clutch to slip a little in 3rd under full boost (stg3) but only after driving quite hard for a while with 4 people and luggage. Any other situation its solid and I can't get it to slip. When I change it, I'll be getting a standard one as I am not predicting any great change in my torque figures and a fresh one will be fine unless I rag it round a track every other weekend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
I went for the Sachs sport pressure plate and standard friction plate when my clutch gave up immediately after fitting Maptun stg 3 at 112k miles. I've done 5k miles on it since and it feels very smooth and you don't notice it's any heavier in normal use (except maybe when stuck in traffic jams).

The only problem I had with it was that the flexible clutch hose blew 2 weeks after fitting the clutch and no amount of bleeding would get a new one to work. The problem was the old one was hardened with age and the new one was too flexible and expanded too much under the pressure so wouldn't disengage properly
In the end it was fixed by replacing the standard Saab hose with a braided steel flexible hose for the whole length from master to slave, and it's been perfect ever since
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Think I'll go for the standard Saab clutch as the car is a daily driver and I don't plan regular track days. so whilst the clutch is being done is there anything else that should be done at the same time? (can't stretch to a LSD yet!)
Is there any likelihood that slave or master cylinders may be weakened and so fail just after the new clutch is fitted?
Thanks
Andy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
494 Posts
In the end it was fixed by replacing the standard Saab hose with a braided steel flexible hose for the whole length from master to slave, and it's been perfect ever since[/b]
where did you source the braided steel line from, Matt A? i have spoken with a couple of Saab specialists local to me and every one of them has told me something along the lines of "there is no such thing, you will have to take measurements, find the proper fittings and solder the entire thing together yourself."


Andy Aero, when you replace the clutch, you should replace atleast the throwout bearing at the same time. there should be no issues with the master and slave cylinders, unless you see signs of leakage or are experiencing trouble due to worn parts.

if you were to decide to replace either the slave or the master cylinders, i would highly recommend replacing both at the same time. often, when one fails, the other is due to fail soon

i replaced my failed clutch master cylinder about 8k miles back, followed by replacement of the clutch slave cylinder which basically exploded about 6k miles ago. the clutch line was next to go, with a pin-hole spraying fluid onto the radiator, replaced the line about 4k miles back. i do not know how old my slave and master cylinders were, i had not replaced them in the 4 years/50k miles since i have owned the car, though the previous owner had both replaced at some point. the clutch line, as far as i know, had been there since the car was built and had 12 years/300k miles worth of driving on it. i am surprised that the flexible section of that line lasted so long.

and on the topic of flexible clutch line... i wonder how the flexible sections of brake line on my c900 look
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
xassh, I found the supplier (I think they were mentioned some time ago on Saabscene), and as my car was stranded at the local specialist, they measured the original part and/or sent it so that the correct fittings could be used. The supplier was Thinkauto

Andy, I was advised to replace the slave cylinder at the same time as the clutch because it's a gearbox out job to fit so expensive otherwise.

Matt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
494 Posts
yes, Matt, if removal of the gearbox is necessary to do either, i certainly would replace both at one time to save the expense in the future.

that point escaped me earlier, as gearbox removal is not required in the c900, but the clutch, pressure plate and slave cylinder do come out all together as if they were a single piece.

thanks for the link, i will check them out and see if i can figure out the price in US dollars
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top