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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
i recently bought a 9000 aero, 97 on a p, 172k miles.
before i bought it, it has had shox uprated, and poss springs, new standard turbo fitted, poss new exhaust.
i am looking to uprate the car a bit, better handling, more oomph. what should i do and in what order?
I am only looking to spend around £1000, and cannot weild a spanner safely myself, so will have to pay for the work.
The wheels and tyres are standard, as is most of the under bonnet stuff.
thanks in advance

Also, are there any specialists in south west scotland/ glasgow who i should visit for advice?

i want more 
 

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Hi there, Dead_One and welcome to Saabscene! You'd usually have got a load of responses by now, but I reckon everyone is outside!!

I bought my 9000 Aero as standard a couple of years ago and have now done loads of stuff to it.

If that really is your budget, I would be inclined to leave the ecu alone (some might disagree) and go for a complete JT exhaust system (see elkparts.com) and a sports air filter to go with it. You can then always add the ecu later on. That way, you have a totally new exhaust system and you could even Ebay bits of the old one (eg. cat) for a few quid towards fitting etc. These upgrades will really make the engine feel as if it is breathing properly. Do it the other way round and you will have to upgrade your ecu if you change the exhaust etc to get the best out of it.

That should take care of around £500.

I would then fit a set of uprated shocks/springs. Either Bilsteins or Konis/various springs. Beware that Bilsteins will give you a v.harsh ride. A cheaper alternative (& probably a good one) would be to fit an uprated rear anti roll bar and front strut brace for around £300.

I would take your car to a garage (sorry, can't recommend one) and get them to check the suspension bushes and engine mounts. New ones make a big difference the old ones are warn from my experience. Well worth (& easy) changing the rear ARB buches for poly if you go the uprated shock/spring route.

Hope you are enjoying your Aero - I certainly did when I first got mine!
 

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I am in the same process as you. I firstly uprated the rear antiroll bar bushes(elkparts) cheap mod you could do this yourself. I then did the front ones which brought back the understeer and have fitted new front (rear) wishbone bushes with poly ones(not a diy job if you are no good with a spanner) fitted a freeflow air filter(easy job) and have taken out the heater plate that fits between inlet manifold and engine block(on certain aeros) mines a 97 model(not diy). My next step is to carry on with the suspension shock/springs then strut brace and a uprated rear antiroll bar. After this the brakes then ecu+exhaust stage 3 package.
I have modded many cars( I am in the motor trade) and would suggest brakes /suspension first as you can carry more speed into a corner making you feel that the car is faster. Good luck with the mods but remember that you have a lot of miles on engine/gearbox don't go too mad. I have only 60k(2 owner car both old with FSH) on mine and the gearbox broke(expensive) But I was probally unlucky as some guy's in this site don't have problems. Elkparts/Abbott/Maptun are the tuners suppliers. Sorry don't know any garages up north.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi all
thanks for the speedy replies.
the engine was replaced a few thousand miles ago, so should be up to the job.
i think my first stop will be to try to get an idea of what has been done so far to the car, then go for the handling upgrades if needed.
Although.... a ecu upgrade does sound apealing :)
 

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Welcome to SaabScene Dead One

I'd go with what the others have said - I'd probably agree with JezF and leave the ECU till later. Although the ECU would give you noticeably more power, you'd have to go way beyond your budget to get the most out of it.

Ylee Coyote may be able to advise on Specialists in that area (having said that - he travels down to the Midlands to fettle the Aero Monster
)
 

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Sorry guys, but I am going to have to cause a bit on controversy here. I would suggest adding the ECU first. While adding the exhaust and filter are excellent foundation pieces presuming that you are going to continue to tune the car, the best bang for the buck or pound in this case is an ECU which can give you 30 to 40 horsepower just by plugging in a new box. In regards to who is the best in this area, it comes down to a matter of taste and the tune level. I have a personal saying in this matter, "why talk to the waiter when you can go straight to the chef." By this I mean, I would stick with any of the Swedish tuners who know the car well. BSR/SpeedParts, MapTun, Nordic, and SQR all have good boxes. The best stage 1/2 probably will come from BSR/SpeedParts. This is right where they target their ECUs in the market and they are the largest ECU tuner in Sweden. Now, as you start to reach for higher horsepower levels, the other tuners are where you will want to go. I personally use SQR because of his association with the Saab racing team in Sweden and practical knowledge that this brings to his tuning. However, I also personally have worked with Fredrik from MapTun and he also has a great setup. Nordic is suppose to be pretty good in Sweden, but I cannot comment further on that. So, that is my take and as they say, you get what you paid for.


PS - If you need some ideas on Aero tuning, you can check my website Yankton Tuned
 

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I went straight for a Speedparts Stage 3 before I sorted the suspension. However, the Aero is such a fast car anyway, in hindsight, I'd have done it the other way round.

Remember, if you do the ecu first, you might find failings in other parts of the system (I had to replace my DI cassette) that will cost you more money to fix and take you over budget.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the advice.
I am still unconvinced about this car, have only had it for a 4-5 weeks, and so far it has been in the garage for 2 of them, plus the steering is still quite uncertain and vague.
Am not sure if i should upgrade it as suggested, or look for a similar car without the vague steering as a base.
I was even considering selling it and going for a different type of car, considering it that was until a new m3 tried to out drag me away from a roundabout :)

He wasnt pleased, there he was in his 50k bm, there was me in my 4k saab
I did stop at 70 though to let him catch up, and also to change up from 2nd

So, what shox/ springs do i go for, and is it worth going for new wheels/ tyres as well?
 

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I thought that vague steering was the result of worn rubber bushes at the back? No doubt an expert will be along soon
 

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Originally posted by sgould:
[qb]I thought that vague steering was the result of worn rubber bushes[/qb][/b]
It is a classic sign of worn front wishbone rear bushes. Very common on the 9000 and only about £10 each for the parts. Pretty easy to fit too, either as DIY or for about an hour's labour at somewhere that knows the 9000.
 

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Check the top engine mounts too. I could actually move the engine with my bodyweight and new bushes had a major effect on steering.

I certainly echo Bills comments re the wishbone bushes. Steering on mine is spot on, so as per my previous posting, you need to get the bushes checked out.
 

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Originally posted by JezF:
[qb]Check the top engine mounts too. I could actually move the engine with my bodyweight and new bushes had a major effect on steering.

I certainly echo Bills comments re the wishbone bushes. Steering on mine is spot on, so as per my previous posting, you need to get the bushes checked out.      [/qb][/b]
This was the first thing I did when I got my 'new' Aero - the wishbone bushes were replaced with Superflex bushes, the rear anti-roll bar bushes were also replaced with poly, and the top engine mounts were also replaced - one poly, one standard. The improvement in steering and gear change is very pronounced
!
 

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I don't know one end of a spanner from the other so I travelled to Abbott to mod my Aero up (at great expense)I don't know any garages over in the West that are experienced in mods but I've heard that Roseisle cars in Dalkeith do Maptun and Abbott mods. However, I sent them an e-mail asking them to quote for some work and haven't heard anything so maybe a call would be best.

If you want to meet up to have a shot of my car to check to see if it's worth it then send me a PM.

http://www.abbottracing.com

http://www.roseisle.com/sales.htm
 

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I would give Ranald at Roseisle a call(0131 6634321). He's done lots of Abbott mods to my 9-3 Aero, including the ECU upgrade. He lent me a car for a week while he sent the ECU down to them to be re-mapped. They also deal with Maptune, Koni, Eibach etc., so can do prety much anything you want.
Ranald drives a 9000 Aero himself, and has had just about everything you could think of done to it, including a custom made clutch from Germany). I'm sure he would give you a test drive of his car, just to let you see what is possible. Must be worth a trip across to Dalkeith (Edinburgh bypass) on a Saturday morning, just to see what he thinks of your car. Both Ranald and his head Technicial used to work for a Saab dealership in Edinburgh, but have set up as an independant on their own. Sometimes takes a day or 2 to return your calls, but definately worth the wait - great guy and a great service, no bullsh*t.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for all the replies, looks like a trip across country is on the cards then... nice time to try out the car i guess....
 

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Sorry guys, but I am going to have to cause a bit on controversy here. I would suggest adding the ECU first.  [/b]
I have to agree w/JezF. Even a stock Aero will produce extremely high EGT's. Trying to get more power with the stock exhaust will only exacerbate the issue. A prerequisite to tuning any 9000 is to have a larger downpipe - not only will it significantly improve the volumetric efficiency, it will significantly lower the EGT's. And every drop in degree on the exhaust side translates to about the same drop on the intake side. A 3" exhaust provides a much more healthier operating condition for the engine, even in stock software tuning. Also, a modified ECU will feel much more responsive with the larger diameter exhaust. There's really no controversy here: all the honest tuners I've spoken with would never suggest changing the software without first enlarging the downpipe diameter.
 
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