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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, turbo stopped working at the weekend. While poking around today I noticed this connection had come out about half an inch.


It fits just behind the Saab logo and has two pipes running from it. I can't see any kind of retaining clip and I wondered if this should be quite loose ( I can pull it out quite easily.)

What is it? Has it contributed to my turbo failure?
 

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Hi, Gordy.

This does tend to be quite loose and I think that's normal. I know you've checked all the hoses. Do you still get any "whooshing" or other "airy" noises?

I knew you shouldn't have let Pete get near the car (can't have been you and me fiddling with the downpipe, could it? Of course not... )
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Of course it couldn't have been us

I'm not getting a whooshy sound, it was only when the turbo failed that I heard a Fssst. The Check Engine light is on.

I've checked the pipes that I can see from above and they look OK. I haven't been able to get underneath to look upwards though. If I dislodged anything it would be underneath as I moved the pipe, I would have thought.
 

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Originally posted by Gordy:
[qb]The Check Engine light is on.[/qb][/b]
OK. Switch the ignition on but don't start the engine. After about 15 seconds or so, the "Check Engine" light will start flashing. Count the number of short flashes before the long flash at the end (when it will start to repeat). This will tell us what it isn't happy about. If it does some short flashes, then pauses, then some more short flashes, there is more than one fault number and it will flash them all with a pause in between. The long flash means it is finished and is repeating the whole thing again.

Hope this makes sense
 

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2 flashes - MAP sensor
3 flashes - Intake air temperature sensor
4 flashes - Coolant temperature sensor
5 flashes - Throttle position sensor
6 flashes - Oxygen sensor (lambda probe)
7 flashes - Fuel-air mixture
8 flashes - EVAP valve

Andrew
 

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I guess it is the lambda probe..
hopefully you may just have disturbed the contacts when you changed the downpipe
they are quite fragile to knocks and they do get contaminated
If you do a search I am sure there is a thread on this already and what to do ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK, it's the Lambda sensor. Am I safe to drive the car around without it working or will it do more damage?

Will the fault in the sensor have stopped the turbo or will the turbo have been damaged because the sensor isn't working?

My Haynes Manual tells me that it's very delicate and the Torque on the sensor is important when installing it so I guess my clumsy efforts with a 22mm spanner may have hastened it's end.
 

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correct me if I am wrong the lambda thingy measures the a/f ratio ..if the ecu cannot get a reading it will shut down all the complicated stuff(turbo)and default to a known a/f ratio map to keep it running
no the turbo should be ok
and the replacement is 5 min job
however it can be pricey..
euro car parts next to the gyle might be a place to try before being robbed blind by mr saabpartsman
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I searched the site as you suggested. It appears my first action should be to disconnect the battery for 30 mins to see if that clears the error. I'll try that to see if it helps. It's reassuring to see that the turbo might be OK.
 

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I assume you mean the breather stub?

Take the rubber bush out, you will find it oil and quite compressed looking.

Give it a wash in hot water and fairy liquid with a toothbrush. this helps it expand back out to its former self.

That should hold the stub more snugly. Always works for me. Give the plastic stub and the breathers a clean out as well, they usually fill with gunge.

Also you cannot just stop the turbo, its spun by exhaust gasses so even at idle the things spinning very slowly though with no boost.

The lambda probe measures the a/f ratio like already said, the probe is ignored on full throttle, accelerating and cold starting (open loop), its only used at idle, over run and constant throttle (closed loop). But when it has a fault it causes problems even when the cars in 'open loop'.

The car will be running in whats reffered to as 'limp home mode' which is a pre selected map which usually runs a bit on the rich side to prevent engine damage, the boost will also be limited a bit.

Your fine to drive it but get it sorted. The car won't be at full piotential and economy and so on will take a tumble.

The probe may be fine but a broken wire, dodgy contact or even a bad earth. I assume the lambda is a 3 wire probe? One wire is the signal wire and the other 2 wires are for the internal heater (probably grey), its earthed through the exhaust.

Chris
 

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C'mon Andrew, I think us "foreigners" are redundant here

Originally posted by Chris H:
[qb]I assume the lambda is a 3 wire probe? One wire is the signal wire and the other 2 wires are for the internal heater (probably grey), its earthed through the exhaust.[/qb][/b]
I think it will probably be a 4-wire probe. My '96 is 4-wire and Gordy's is newer still. I believe this means it's grounded via one of the wires.
 

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Originally posted by Scaero owner:
[qb]I suppose the 4th is a earth via the exhaust      [/qb][/b]
Yes, on later cars the earth was carried back through a wire for greater accuracy. Ever-more-stringent emissions laws and all that...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OK I've checked the Euro car Parts website just in case and they are advertising a Guttmann Lambda Probe for £29.99 . Unfortunately, it's a 3 wire probe even though I'm searching under a 97 9000 Aero .

If I do need to swap the Lambda, would a 3 wire probe work OK in my car?

Also, when I accessed their website, the search criteria automatically defaulted to 97 9000 Aero without any input by me.Bit spooky that
 

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Do I remember that we originally forgot to remove the lambda probe when we undid the downpipe? Perhaps we strained the cable. I'm pretty sure the 3-wire sensor wouldn't work. I got a 4-wire one from my local German & Swedish some time ago. It connects onto the existing cable and was around £32 + VAT.

I assume you have been to ECP before and selected the '97 9000 Aero. When you select your car, ECP's website sends a "cookie" to your web browser carrying your preferences, which the browser stores on your PC. When you connect to ECP, it asks your browser for the cookie and if it gets it, uses the information it contains, which is the last selection you made.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah, we did.

Also, I started the engine before installing the Lambda properly


I'm hoping that disconnecting the battery will clear the Check Engine light now that the Lambda is properly seated.

German & Swedish? What's that then?

I can't remember using ECP before but your explanation makes a lot of sense. Especially compared to my reasoning which involved little old gypsy ladies and crystal balls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Found German, Swedish and French online but they don't stock a Lambda in their online catalogue. There's a shop in Glasgow I could visit though.

Local Saab garage can supply one for £107.60 inc VAT. I doubt I'll go there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
There's one in Glasgow I can go to. I phoned them up to be told that they stock generic probes but if mine has a red wire then there might be a compatibility issue. A lot of post 96 Saabs have red wires which indicate a Titanium Lambda and thus an issue. I've to check mine and get back to them. Hmmm.
 
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