i've read all i can and am now confused and panic struck after reading 'stevena's experience..
91'H 2.3fpt auto, abs light came on while not braking and stayed on every time car is run since (6days ago). all appears well in the wheel sensor dept, and have performed the following check from the autodata program on garage pc..
bridge 2pin diagnosis socket (repeated five times), getting code 1222 - apparently master cylinder valve. then i unplugged ecu (ign off!) and read 5.3ohms across pin18 and earth. (accepted range is supposedly between 2 and 5 ohms) this aparently indicated a master cylinder valve fault. i would have expected a short 0ohms or break of continuity as a fault, but 5.3ohms seems too close!
could it be a faulty ecu 'lying' that 5.3ohms is a fault, or do i need an entire valve block/pump?
any help VERY gratefully received
having read stevena's experience im not sure which way to go with this!
Thanks in advance
91'H 2.3fpt auto, abs light came on while not braking and stayed on every time car is run since (6days ago). all appears well in the wheel sensor dept, and have performed the following check from the autodata program on garage pc..
bridge 2pin diagnosis socket (repeated five times), getting code 1222 - apparently master cylinder valve. then i unplugged ecu (ign off!) and read 5.3ohms across pin18 and earth. (accepted range is supposedly between 2 and 5 ohms) this aparently indicated a master cylinder valve fault. i would have expected a short 0ohms or break of continuity as a fault, but 5.3ohms seems too close!
could it be a faulty ecu 'lying' that 5.3ohms is a fault, or do i need an entire valve block/pump?
any help VERY gratefully received
having read stevena's experience im not sure which way to go with this!
Thanks in advance