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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Last time I changed my CV boots, there were quite a few guide notes on the subject posted around the interweb but this time, I notice a lot of them seem to have disappeared and so before I forget what I did, I’m making some notes.

So this is the renewal of the outer CV boots on my 1997 Saab 9000 CSE Anniversary. It is assumed that the torque-wrench settings will all be to hand as will new boots, clips, CV grease and hub nuts.

The day before, give the hub nut a good dose of penetrating fluid and repeat this when you are starting work.
The first job is to remove the road wheel and pop out the hub cap and then replace the wheel and with it back on the ground and preferably, a glamourous assistant applying the footbrake, take a long bar and slacken off the hub nut.
This nut will be tight and when I undid mine, I broke my socket extension, so use the most robust tools you have for the job.

With the car jacked and supported, the inner wing liner comes off to give access. Next, the disc caliper needs to come off and so the ABS wiring and brake hose needs to be unclipped and then the two large bolts that secure the caliper need to come off and the caliper be supported out of the way.
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Now the drive shaft needs to be freed from the hub. With the nut covering the thread, tap it loose with a hammer or there are pullers that can be used. If it never came off before, this will probably take you a few hours.

Next, give the area around the inner joint a good wipe around to try to keep it clean when the shaft comes off and then remove the two large bolts holding the hub assembly to the strut. The larger clip on the inner CV boot can now be cut off and the hub is now free to move outwards and the shaft can be unpopped from its inner end universal joint. Cover the inner joint with a plastic bag secured with a rubber band.
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Now with the shaft off, the CV joint needs to come off. It is held in place by a brass circlip around the splines which needs to be expanded at the same time as a little force is being applied to the joint to move it along the shaft. I used a large flat-bit screwdriver. Cut off the old boot and pop the shaft in a vice or similar. Laying the large screwdriver along the shaft, find the parting point of the circlip and give it a twist to open it and then while holding the clip open, gently tap the screwdriver with a hammer. It takes a bit of time and patience but it will move eventually.
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Clean the shaft as best you can and now install the new boot on the shaft and reinstall the CV joint. Repack with new grease and install the new clips. Clip pliers are best used to pinch these up.
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With the shaft reassembled, guide it back into the inboard universal joint and pass the outboard end of the shaft through the hub and a new hub nut placed to keep it in place for tightening later.
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The two bolts fixing the hub assembly to the strut can now be inserted and once the inner boot is squarely aligned (and not kinked in any way) the final (larger) clip on the inner boot can be placed and crimped up. I found it impossible to get access with my crimping pliers here so I used diagonal cutters instead.

Now the brake caliper can be replaced and the two fixing bolts replaced followed by the hoses and wiring. The inner wing liner now goes back and the car can be lowered to the ground ready to torque up the hub nut.

The hub nub is supposed to be torqued to 250ft/lbs which is about 340NM which is really tight.

It’s a good idea to recheck the boots for any leaks after a day or two to ensure that nothing has popped off.

I hope you've found this helpful and good luck!
 
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