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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is based on my 9-3 Aero MY'03 model but should be the same for other models.

This is a ‘how to’ guide for fixing a water leak on the 9-3 saloon and cab.

Background, my car sprung a leak, I noticed this when I jet washed it. Initially I thought the leak must be from the door seals on the passenger side (RHD car) as the water was pooling under and around AMP 1, oh deep joy!

Needless to say I dried out the water and did not use the radio for about a week. The amp lived.

After some research the likely suspect was the cabin filter/drain set into the bulkhead under the filter – there are actually two of these drains, one is difficult to see but can be cleaned out by ‘feel’. I was a little dubious at first that this could be the cause but give the door seals where in perfect condition and the seal looked ok from a cursory inspection I was left feeling it worth having a proper look, that and the fact that I missed having the radio on as it had rained hard for a week!

This can be tackled by anyone with common sense and a light touch, given you are working on and around the windscreen and you must first remove the wipers before you can gain access to the plastic scuttle.

First, remove the wiper arms – I did this by removing the plastic caps at the base of the wiper to reveal the locking nuts. Take the nuts off and soak the wiper mechanism spindles with WD40 or such. Leave for a half hour to let it penetrate. I suggest you mark the wipers position on the windscreen prior to removal, it will make it a lot quicker to refit.

Ok now remove the wiper arms. Mine where stuck on so would not ease off. I used an open ended spanner under the base of the arm to apply light pressure and tapped the base of the arm with a hammer and they released after a few taps. Be gentle as the scuttle is resting on the bottom edge of the windscreen. Once the wipers are off remove the rubber strip from the edge of the scuttle closest to the engine and then the two plastic fixings either side which hold the scuttle to the inside of the wings – you’ll know them when you see them, it is obvious. Ease off the scuttle, it is still held on by 7 or so fixings under the scuttle. It will pull off just go slowly. (My plastic scuttle was faded so I sanded it, primed it and painted it silk black whilst it was off of the car.)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Now you have access to the cabin filter and the drains.

My cabin filter housing looked OK as did the seal, but appeared a little loose.


I next removed the filter element by releasing the two top catches and sliding the filter out.


With the filter out of the way it became clear just how easy it is to remove the housing. There are two black catches/latches (one each side) which you release and hey-presto you can remove the housing.
(Black catches either side)

(close up of catch)


Once the housing was out of the car it was easy to see the problem. The seal had perished and water could easily get past it and into the cabin.
Remains of the seal
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Next job was to remove all traces of the old seal from the housing and bulkhead. The bulkhead was easy – I used a small plastic scraper (credit card sized) which was perfect for the job, no damage to the paint.


The seal is fixed to the housing and the glue residue needs removing – I used wire wool as it clans and keys the surface for the new seal.

(close up of knackered seal)



Once you have done all the dirty work I suggest you clean out the two drains set into the bulkhead as they do get clogged with crap.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Once the surfaces are clean you need to fit a new seal. Patience not being one of my virtues I opted to make one using: http://www.screwfix.com/p/extra-thick-weatherstrip-10mm-x-7m-black/40425 this is exactly yhr right width and depth and it is marine grade so designed to deal with the elements and all for the princely sum of £7.00. Incidentally I also used it when installing my new JBL door speakers so got my moneys worth out of it!

Ok it is easy to apply just follow the grove on the back of the housing and stuck it to the housing like so.


Ensure you put the join at the bottom and get a neat tight join. I applied a little silicone sealant to this joint to ensure it is water tight.

Whilst I had the scuttle off I also took the opportunity to lubricate the wiper arm assembly, WD40 the wiper motor connector block and also a quick squirt onto the cabin fan motor which is accessed through the bulkhead.


Now refit which is the reverse of removal. Make sure the catches in the housing are latched properly and the filter is a tight fit to the bulkhead.

Job done!
 

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Hi

Appreciate your help and advice in this.

Bought my 9-3 a Xmas presse.

New filter (best one euro parts did, made in Germany and a roll of Marine spec rubber seal).

Although no footwell leaks, amps blowing up yet. I thought prevention was better than cure.

Glad I changed it all as the old filter was well skanky, cabin smelt a bit musty and the old seal on the filter carrier was almost non existent.

All back as good as new and cabin now smells as fresh as a Daisy.

My advice even if your passenger footwell is not yet like an Olympic size pool do it any way.

A very cheap fix indeed.......
 

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great advice , mine is currently like a swimming pool plus the fan seized and the resistor blew .... any one got any pics on removing the wiper arms
 

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Hi

You may not need to remove the wiper arm, just remove the passenger side wiper blade and than move the arm under the bonnet when it is opened. On the 9-3 sport the plastic shield once unclipped should fold in half.

Good luck
 

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Hello there,

Here's a couple of pics i took, while removing wipers.

I used a small rachet to release a 13mm nut, then a special tool ... Sealey VS807 Windscreen removal tool puller heavy duty. (£9.95 Ebay) to remove wiper.

Using this tool made the whole job of removing the wipers very easy. P1060483.jpg P1060487.jpg
 

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If you have no access to jointing, clean up the jointing faces and apply a lot of silicone bathroom sealant to the filter housing and fit it back to the car using the pressure from the catches to help the silicone seal. Leave it a few hours to cure and you'll be sorted.
 

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Love the wiper puller, those Chinese think of everything, however like I said depending on your model you may not need to remove the wipers. :D
 

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I am going to change my wiper links at some point and think I will tackle this job at the same time. Do you get access to the heater fan??? My one is making a chirping noise and on 1 occasion it started making a ticking noise like it was stuck. Does the heater fan need replaced or is its repairable??
 

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When I change the wiper link arms and do the reseal I will silcone spray the fan itself. If its fixes it then great of not I will source a new one. I have looked at a few videos and it seems rather easy to do.
 

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Next job was to remove all traces of the old seal from the housing and bulkhead. The bulkhead was easy – I used a small plastic scraper (credit card sized) which was perfect for the job, no damage to the paint.


The seal is fixed to the housing and the glue residue needs removing – I used wire wool as it clans and keys the surface for the new seal.

(close up of knackered seal)



Once you have done all the dirty work I suggest you clean out the two drains set into the bulkhead as they do get clogged with crap.
Looked at this on YouTube. Guy with the same problems on a Vectra removed the rubber drain funnel and that also stopped water getting in. Rubber drain funnel get clogged up and that causes the water to rot the seal. If you do this job better off removing the rubber funnel also.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Looked at this on YouTube. Guy with the same problems on a Vectra removed the rubber drain funnel and that also stopped water getting in. Rubber drain funnel get clogged up and that causes the water to rot the seal. If you do this job better off removing the rubber funnel also.
In this case the drain where fine, no blockages, the seal will leak due to age/deterioration, the water run off drains straight down the screen onto the seals (poor design). I used a marine grade deal due to this as it should last a lot longer. :)
 

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Thanks for this excellent fix.
My 2006 93 leaked over Christmas, it was saturated to an inch or so above the carpet front and rear on the nearside (RHD). The amp1 blew but I did the fibre optic loop fix (somewhere on this forum too) which completely cured the dead amp and got all the warning noises back.
Replaced the seal on the airbox which was perished, I managed to do it without taking any wipers off (lazy toad) and lubed the heater fan and wiper arms while at it. Both drain tubes were blocked too.
Am in the process now of drying out with dehumidifier as the substantial foam under the carpet has sucked up an unfeasible amount of water....
 
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