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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone else having these issues? any resolve?

Saab 93 1.9 TTID 2008 180bhp


The problem I am having is the power seems very sluggish. When I reach approx 3-3500rpm it stutters and like a rev limiter kicking in it goes into limited performance mode (not limp mode). I can turn the key off and on and it resets. I have found the problem with limited performance going in - the charger intake hose coming from the intercooler to the engine collapses in on itself about 3-3500rpm causing the engine to go into limited performance mode.


My thoughts are that the turbo is not boosting enough air for the engine to breathe, therefore the engine is sucking more air in than the turbo can produce? Would this be correct or are there other known issues? I fear 1 or 2 of the turbos have gone?


Anyone know of the best / cheapest place to get this fixed or can I buy a repair kit to diy?

Thanks
Andy
 

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this has happend several times over the passed few months.....

the last charge pipe collapsing would mean the turbo has stopped ( signal from the ecu, or a mechanical fault) and as you have said a vacuum has formed rather than pressure...... this would point that at that rev range you have a problem either mechanically ie vnt actuator sticking vanes sticking etc... or a problem with an electrical element of the engine that the ecu feels the need to cut boost to protect the engine for safety..... this could be a faulty sensor or something like that....

lets start simply

are there any other symptoms ?
are there any engine lights ? or better yet have you had it scanned ?
are the vac lines looking in good condition from the vac pump to the turbos...
whens the last time it did a full and complete regen ?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry, I should have said that….. I recently purchased the car. My last Saab was the Vector Sport 150bhp. The guy I bought it from said it was an EGR problem that was diagnosed. I trusted his word! Cleaned out the EGR and then we spotted the pipe collapsing.

No other symptoms that are showing, it's not smokey, idling very well, pressure pushing out the exhaust seems ok, Engine light hasn't came on yet and no limp home mode, only the limited performance light.

I haven't had it scanned yet, thought I would check on here first. I had a mate look at it and he thought the pipes and hoses etc looked fine, actuator seemed to be ok. Is there an easy way of me checking these myself in case he just wants me to recon the turbo?

Thanks again.
Andy
 

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Are you local to Glasgow? If so I've got a scanner and i'd be happy to plug it in and scan the codes for you. Might help you get a quick diagnosis. PM me if interested and we'll arrange a meet up somewhere.
 

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SaabScene.com Premium Member
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Anyone else having these issues? any resolve?

Saab 93 1.9 TTID 2008 180bhp


The problem I am having is the power seems very sluggish. When I reach approx 3-3500rpm it stutters and like a rev limiter kicking in it goes into limited performance mode (not limp mode). I can turn the key off and on and it resets. I have found the problem with limited performance going in - the charger intake hose coming from the intercooler to the engine collapses in on itself about 3-3500rpm causing the engine to go into limited performance mode.


My thoughts are that the turbo is not boosting enough air for the engine to breathe, therefore the engine is sucking more air in than the turbo can produce? Would this be correct or are there other known issues? I fear 1 or 2 of the turbos have gone?


Anyone know of the best / cheapest place to get this fixed or can I buy a repair kit to diy?

Thanks
Andy
Mine did this last week exactly the same. I think I fixed mine, this is what I did - Reset ECU, replaced MAP sensor, took car for spirited drive, 4th gear 80mph for 20 minutes. Then let cool down and drove - and it was fine. It seemed to be symptoms of blocked DPF. You could also try cleaning your EGR and Pipe as they can cause similar symptoms to what you have. You could also try removing the MAF sensor power connector and let the car work out it's own MAF, this will prove if your MAF is faulty or not, take car for spin and see if it's improved, if not then you can rule that out. You'll get an EML so make sure you have a code reader to reset.(Apologies for no spaces in reply - something wrong with my version of IE in work). Check your airfilter & housing as well make sure it's not dirty or full of leaves.
 

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pipes do loose there ridgity at times and will cause the pipe to suck in on higher boost, if you squeeze the pipe you should be able to feel if its gone soft as there will be no ridgity with it..........merc suffered this a while back and thus a recall was put in place
 

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also as said above a failing maf can give the symptom of a speed limiter and wont give a code all the time, try spraying it with electrical contact cleaner through the grills, then reset the ecu by disconnecting battery for 10min or so

i will say though if your pipe is being sucked in this is likely to be your issue
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the offer Kevdo, I am in Falkirk, I bought an OBD reader and there was no errors on it. My mate has a decent diagnostics computer, I will get him to plug it in. Maybe a regen is needed.

Thanks Kez and Virtualm, I will try both options, I'm sure it would be good to do these anyway on a regular basis.

I think I will check out the mapping option too nathanbrand1987. My only worry is that in the early part of accelerating the power doesn't seem to be there. The turbo is functioning to a certain extent, but nowhere near what it should be. I can push it a wee bit, but nothing to write home about.

I replaced the EGR valve with a new one and replaced the hose that was collapsing. Problem is still there. So onto checking the lines, maf, map sensor etc and hope for the best. I just don't want to put the turbos in for a recon for the problem to still exist afterwards and i'm £600 lighter. Although i'm sure it would be good for it at 100k miles…….
 

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did you clean out the pipe from egr to inlet when you replaced the egr

try swopping boost solenoids over

maf can give like you hit speed limiter

as you say dont want to start just chucking things at it so imo the first thing clean throttle body egr pipe maf and map disconnect battery 15min or so then start allow to idle 10min then give a good run in 4th clear out dpf


also check actuator aems not sticking.......seems to be getting pretty common
 

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Discussion Starter #11
did you clean out the pipe from egr to inlet when you replaced the egr

try swopping boost solenoids over

maf can give like you hit speed limiter

as you say dont want to start just chucking things at it so imo the first thing clean throttle body egr pipe maf and map disconnect battery 15min or so then start allow to idle 10min then give a good run in 4th clear out dpf


also check actuator aems not sticking.......seems to be getting pretty common
Hi Kez,

No I never cleaned the rest of it. I will do this.

Boost solenoids is a great shout and Iread a post you were on earlier. Problems seem the same. Fingers crossed.

I checked the MAF it all seemed pretty clean, but couldn't really tell if I should do anything to it. I disconnected the MAF sensor and drove it EML came on and went into limp mode for the first time. Plugged it back in and limp mode went away. Haven't looked at the mapping yet. Will try the Solenoid and hope for the best.

I am unsure if the actuator is sticking or not This is pretty low down on the turbo I think? The guy that said I should recon the turbos said the actuator was opening fine and not sticking. He never checked the solenoid etc though so maybe just wanting the recon job. I would prefer to know for sure before spending £600

I tried the 3rd gear for 20 mins a few weeks ago and kind of ruled out the dpf….but maybe a manual regen could be called for. Only got a small code reader so maybe take it to my mates for a regen.

Thanks for the comments so far and fingers crossed I can get to the bottom. Learning a lot from the forums! Keep it up guys.
Andy
 

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ive just put pics up on a thread of mine ......check them out

i guy that doesnt check the boost solenoids and points direct to the turbo BEWARE !!.............these are easy to check yourself but please do the pipe tb etc first just to rule theses out

ive done an how to on it in that section and as i say take a look at my recent thread
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ive just put pics up on a thread of mine ......check them out

i guy that doesnt check the boost solenoids and points direct to the turbo BEWARE !!.............these are easy to check yourself but please do the pipe tb etc first just to rule theses out

ive done an how to on it in that section and as i say take a look at my recent thread
Thanks Kez, will check it out. I checked the solenoid this morning. (I just swapped round the connectors, hopefully that shouldn't matter) When I started back up and drove the turbo gauge was hardly moving and not much boost at all. So I am wondering if only one is working but not very well as before it boosts up to 3500rpm then the limited performance light comes on and the hose collapses. Would that mean a goosed solenoid not triggering the 2nd turbo to take it from 3500rpm?
 

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You say hose collapses this will starve the car of boost

At 3.5k rpm big turbo working only

If it boosts ok till then means little turbo ok big ok as it works with little one to approx 2 to 3k

To me its a restriction issue.......explain this pipe again
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You say hose collapses this will starve the car of boost

At 3.5k rpm big turbo working only

If it boosts ok till then means little turbo ok big ok as it works with little one to approx 2 to 3k

To me its a restriction issue.......explain this pipe again
I think it is the charger intake hose, it comes from the intercooler to the top right of the engine and is made up of a U bend and L bend. It collapses on itself when I rev to 3500-4000rpm either as if the turbo is not producing enough boost or the engine is sucking too hard (said the nun to the bishop ;) )
 

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Not enough boost to provided by the turbo meaning its under vacuum.... This shouldn't be happening... 2nd turbo control issue in my eye .... Happy to be proved wrong tho :)
 

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Not enough boost to provided by the turbo meaning its under vacuum.... This shouldn't be happening... 2nd turbo control issue in my eye .... Happy to be proved wrong tho :)
Hi Nathanbrand1987

So should that be the Solenoid that controls the boost? Replace one or both? Do these either work or don't work or can they deteriorate but still work? As I said when I swapped these around it seemed extremely sluggish to boost at all, but the other way I could at least feel some boost up until 3500rpm, definitely not full boost though as not the power the ttid should be producing.

I suppose there could just be a number of things causing different problems. Time to roll up sleeves and clean everything I presume...

As for the MAF should I be taking the whole thing apart and trying to clean it? It looked spotless when I visually checked it through the grate.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hi Guys,

I bought 2 new Boost Solenoids and replaced them, but still getting the same issue. Pulling my hair out here and already about £500 down fault finding….

Going to take off the Throttle body for a clean as well as the manifold. Should I get it remapped? Or could a previous code be stopping it resetting? I disconnected the battery for 10 mins, but still not working.

Thanks
 

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If the intake pipe is squeezing together as you have mentioned you are restricting flow this pipe should maintain its shape

Waste of time getting car mapped with a faultb
 

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ive just put pics up on a thread of mine ......check them out

i guy that doesnt check the boost solenoids and points direct to the turbo BEWARE !!.............these are easy to check yourself but please do the pipe tb etc first just to rule theses out

ive done an how to on it in that section and as i say take a look at my recent thread
Link Kez? I can't find the post. Cheers.
 
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