[vingster]

Read loads of threads but cannot find any that match these symptoms. Car starts fine and drives fine from cold, for about 2 miles, then CEL comes on and it goes into Limp mode. Continue driving until car reaches normal running temperature, then CEL disappears and the the car drives normally for the rest of the journey. Any ideas??
I've removed and cleaned the MAF and MAP, as they were both gunked up, and replaced the EGR valve. Same symptoms again but car drives even better after CEL goes out.
I've tried reading the codes with U480 OBD reader, but comes up with no DTC's. I've also tried my ELM 327, but won't connect ( it used to work on my 2003 95 3.0 TiD), maybe faulty.
THANKS in Advance

 

[vingster]

Just been checking all the vacuum hoses and quite a few of them are hard and cracking. So have just ordered a couple of metres of blue silicon vac hose and will replace them all at the weekend. Not sure if it is related to my problem, but it can't hurt to get them replaced. Think I'll replace all the diesel spill back lines as well, while I'm at it. Will continue to post updates.

 

[vingster]

Well the problem is nothing to do with the vacuum lines. Changed them today, and went for a test drive and same problem. Checked operation of wastegate and swirl valve in the induction manifold,and all appears fine. Not done the fuel lines yet, as run out of tubing. I've got an ELM 327 bluetooth OBD2 on the way, so should be able to get the dtc's soon.
Just to add to my woe, when I got back from the test drive I noticed that the driver's footwell was wet through. spent a bit of time cleaning it up, then sourcing the problem. It turned out that the drain duct that goes into the engine bay was blocked up and couldn't cope with the amount of rain we have just had. Anyway not back at work till 2nd Jan, so hopefully I will resolve the problem.

 

[boris]

Actually it's quite hard to diagnose such problem without a code reader.

 

[vingster]

Just had a quick, thought and will test the crank shaft position sensor tomorrow, weather dependent. It's an easy test,just need to check the resistance value against the ambient temperature. I know it's Christmas Eve but what the hell, should only take an hour. Will post results back tomorrow.

 

[vingster]

Car had decided to get even worse, now it was cutting out within 250 metres of leaving the house. The car would turn over fire up and then die again. Kept repeating this until the car finally maintained revs, albeit with CEL on and Limp mode. Then when it got to temp it would clear and be back to normal. That was on Christmas Eve, and couldn't be bothered to work on it, so left it.
OK, this is what I've done on Boxing Day!! Started at noon and finished at 2pm just as it started to rain, again! My philosophy was, check everything that I have touched since owning the car, which is at the end of October.
1) Removed and refitted the Fuel filter (as I'd changed it not that long ago), checking for any signs of leakage
2) Remove and re-clean the MAF, and clean the connector. Ensure the intake ducts are correctly seated.
3) Remove and re-clean the MAP, and clean the connector. Whilst casting was off checked that the swirl valves operated correctly (manually)
4) Check and cleaned the EGR valve, and clean the connector.
5) Noticed that the jubilee clamp was not tight on the intake side of the turbo, so tightened it.
6) Checked all the Vac hoses that I had replaced.
7) Removed the Crankshaft position sensor, cleaned it and checked it. The resistance should read 860 +/- 90 ohms at 20 Deg C (68Deg F) measured across pins 1 and 2. The reading I got was 867 ohms at 10 Deg C, so well within tolerance, taking into account temperature differential.

So that was that, I fired it up and it started almost immediately, which considering I had removed the fuel filter I expected it to crank over a while before firing up. Anyway, whilst the car was running I re-fitted the under-trays and engine cover, de-jacked the car and put tools away, and car was still running. Revved the Engine up for a while, and still running. Left the car running and went and had a Brew and bit of Xmas cake. Went back out again, car still running and now at normal running temp. No CEL light at all during this time!!
The big test, will come tomorrow when I try a test drive from cold!! Fingers crossed.

 

[vingster]

Well I 'm beaten, the car is still going into Limp mode, the bluetooth elm 327 arrived and cannot detect any dtc, even though there is obviously codes being stored due to the CEL being on. I have booked the car into my local garage on Wednesday, so hopefully they can get the codes, and diagnose the problem. Will report back then.

 

[davidshaw336]

i used the elm 327 lead and use ScanMaster-ELM for ELM327 from wgsoft.de ( costs about 70 euros) use it in opel mode and it can read the DTC well it does for our 93 2.2 TiD 2001 model it uses opel KWP 2000 protacol


hope this helps

 

[vingster]

Dave, Thanks for the advice. I downloaded the Demo version and it said there was 9 DTC's stored, but as it was a Demo it would not tell me what they were. As it was successful in connecting, I downloaded the full version and this is the result :

P0340 Camshaft position sensor (CEL lit)
P0335 Crankshaft position sensor (CEL lit)
P0335 Crankshaft position sensor (CEL not lit)
P0105 MAP : Below minimum threshold (CEL not lit)
P1105 Barometric Pressure Sensor (CEL not lit)
P0335 Crankshaft position sensor (CEL not lit)
P0400 EGR - No signal (CEL not lit)
P0400 EGR - Below minimum threshold (CEL not lit)
P0219 Engine Overspeed condition. (CEL not lit)

I deduced that the last 7 codes were historic data, as the CEL was not lit as a result of them. I then cleared all the codes, and started the engine, and let the car run until the CEL came on again. Re-connected the ELM 327 and was left with 2 codes :

P0340 Camshaft position sensor (CEL lit)
P0335 Crankshaft position sensor (CEL lit)

So it would appear that this is the cause of all my troubles, even though the crankshaft position sensor tested OK, it must be degrading during operation. Will get them both replaced and report back.
THANKS

 

[vingster]

Changed the crankshaft position sensor today, and all is back to normal!!! No more CEL and Limp mode. Phew, that was a cheap repair, cause the camshaft sensor is apparently part of the fuel pump, which would have been costly.

 

[stevek95]

Hello Vingster, first many thanks for going to all the trouble of posting your efforts and results for everyone, esp as it seemed you were on your own throughout,,Ive just read the entire post with intrest as I seem to have similer problems on our 1.9tid 95 except that so far the car has not got to the point where is could not be driven, ours starts fine but after a couple of miles drops into Limp Home and were limited to around 50mph. I have just cleaned the EGR and Maf and Map sensors but its still happening, and I will try to find out about the Crank Sensor now. Im also stuck waiting for a Fault Code Reader from Amazon to arrive, but I might take up the offer of a Software check and update from our local Saab Main Dealer for £50 and a Particle Filter Manual Regen (they fire it up useing there Tech 2 thingy I belive) for £25, and see if that takes me forward.
I hope its fixed for you and all the best,
Steve.

 

[vingster]

Steve, Thanks for the reply. I know how frustrating it can be to get to the bottom of issues, hence why I kept up the thread. I searched loads of other forums as well as this to at least get some clues to the source of the problem, so hopefully it will help others. The key is getting the codes off, but this model is difficult unless you have the correct reader and software, as I found out!!
Anyhow, car is running fantastic!!! Avg MPG going to work, before my problems was 41mpg, which reduced to 31mpg during the problem period. Now that the cps has been changed and all the other bits I've done (as posted) this has increased to 47mpg. Happy Days!!!!
Steve

 

[silverturbo]

Well Vingster, Thanks for your posts, I have a 2001 93 2.2Tid, And have recently experienced the Limp-Home-Mode, (As above) Yesterday though after the car was parked up for over an hour, The fault cleared itself and the car went ok out of L.H.M. upon using the ELM327 I again had codes P0380, PO704, P0335, P0340, P0335, Since the only two codes that cause the L.H.M. problem (that have repeated previously) being 335 & 340 I searched around Google, Got scarred when I was coming across "Faulty DIC" Phew mine is Diesel!!! (Should make this site first port of call I think!) So I'm back to the CPS my belief of "If its faulty then it would be permanent faulty" seems to be attacked by the results of the problem caused, Motor-factors are quoting £38 for a CPS has anyone tried the cheaper versions from eBay? As for the 704 error I know its the No.4 heater thats faulty haven't change yet because the nut on it turns but the rest of it doesn't but its starting fine on three whilst in this time of year! I also noticed last night while playing with the SID that mine shows 31.1MPG had raised eyebrows when reading that changing CPS may/has resulted in 47MPG! so in other words a new CPS pays for itself withing 450 odd miles!

 

[cjapeterborough]

You may not get too many replies as this is an old thread....

I have used the low cost chinese versions on my 9-5's with no
obvious problems.They appear the same quality as the originals
and the resistance measurements are spot on...at least the two
I have used on our two cars have been.

AS to longevity who knows but at about £5 change then you can
easily afford to treat them like a preventative maintenance item
and change every couple of years.

 

[vingster]

Don't go on the motorway much, so when I did last week decided to see what MPG I get purely on motorway driving. As soon as I hit the motorway reset the SID and put it into cruise at 2000rpm 62mph. At the end of my motorway stint the SID was showing 62MPG!!! Albeit it was only a 15 mile stint. Don't think I could drive around so sensibly all the time, got a bit of a heavy right foot!!

 

[big daft lad]

Vingster, thanks for your great detail in this thread. I’m having similar problems with my 2002 2.2 TiD (Hatchback). I’m fine with nuts and bolts but when it comes to code readers etc I’m struggling. Could you explain exactly what hardware and software you need to retrieve and clear the error codes?

Thanks in advance.

 

[vingster]

You need an OBD2 diagnostic reader, of which the preference seems to be an ELM 327

which can be bought off E-Bay. A quick search found this one for £6.95 including delivery. That's the easy bit, the hardest bit was getting the right software which had the correct communication protocols to connect to our ECU. I tried numerous until it was suggested to use ScanMaster-ELM for ELM327 from www.wgsoft.de. The downside is it costs 70Euros. I managed to get it a lot cheaper than that ;-) This software has an "Opel" connect function which is basically compatible with GM ECU, Saab, Vauxhall Opel etc.

 

[big daft lad]

Cheers, that's really great info.

Where did you get the discounted software, or is that a secret?