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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The belt made some seriously horrible noises so I've removed it to find cuts and nicks. The problem is I can't fit the new one. I have 3 different belts to try. I can compress the tensioner about half way up the polished shaft but no more. Should it compress all the way or could it be u/s for some reason. The other weird thing is the manual mentions a home made tool which is just a flat bar with 2 bolts through it, spaced 115 mm apart. This is used to hold the tensioner in it's compressed position. My tensioner is already 115 mm apart in the uncompressed state without a belt. Somethings wrong, but what? Does anybody know the correct length for the 2.3CS belt with air-con? Thanks.
 

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hi, i think you should have put the tool on before you took old belt off.time for some brute force and ignorance.if you have the tool, try to lever tentioner up and put tool in place. (watch your fingers ). maybe somebody out there has an easy way to do it?.cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks chaps. It compresses to half way up the polished shaft then goes tight. Should it compress furthur up the shaft? I don't want to force it and break something.

I have used a spring compressor and even a trolly jack but this starts to lift the engine:(
 

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lift the car on a trolley jack then get a bit of hollow pipe about 16 inch long,put one end on the ground the other on the curved part of the tensioner then slowly release jack until tension is released if this does not work then tensioner must be goosed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thankyou again, this is more or less what I have been doing, using a jack and tube to compress the tensioner and push it upwards over the shaft. How far is 'fully compressed' though? Is it half way up the polished shaft or more? Mine seems to stop at half way and then starts to lift the engine.

Zeppelin, your suggestion would apply more weight to the tensioner. Are they really that hard to compress, if so that's some serious tension
 

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I managed to fit the new belt on mine with a 3 ft breaker bar and a socket on the tensioner pulley nut. Since it's a wrong way thread, you can turn it ccw and it compresses the tensioner. I only needed to compress about 1/2" or maybe 1" - certainly no more than that. Sounds like something is not quite right there!

Are you 100% sure you have the belt routed right? I had to have a few tries
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think I have it routed right but there aren't any pics in the manual. I have it round the air- con and pulley below that then round the crank, up to the tensioner, round that backwards, down to the pas, clockwise to the idler, anticlockwise and then to the alt and clockwise to the air-con. I can't see how it goes any other way. but I could be wrong! I'm sure something isn't right. The aircon sheared a bolt and it threw the belt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, I got the belt installed this morning. The belt that wouldn't fit is a tad shorter so I had to fit a belt of exactly the same length. The awful noise is still there though.

I can't diagnose it properly with a hosepipe. It could be the water pump but seems more 'within' the casing. I'm thinking balancer shaft and there is a bearing at the front of the shaft according to the manual. I have had some vibration from the car in recent weeks but this noise started one morning when I first started the engine. I may drive it later and see what happens.

Maybe I just need another CS
 

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If you take the belt off again
and start the engine, the alternator, water pump, power steering pump and A/C compressor will all be disconnected. Don't run it for more than a minute or two without the pump connected or the engine will overheawater t. If the horrible noise is still there then it is something inside the engine. If not then it is one of the ancillary components. You could try rotating the water pump, steering pump etc. shafts and check for any roughness or up and play. Also make sure that the tensioner idler pulleys are OK. These are well known for failing. Before you remove the belt have a look at the tensioner with the engine ticking over. If it is vibrating up and down it has lost it's damping abilities and will need replacing.
Hope this is helpful
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good idea. I shall pull the belt and see what happens. I've looked at the timing chain and that looks ok as do the sprockets slipper and tensioner. I can't see the balance shaft chain. My thoughts are that it may be the balancing shaft chain, tensioner but given the above info from you chaps I'm really hoping it's an ancilliary item. It's strange that it just happened overnight though.

Sometimes the noise has a snatch to it as if something gets caught momentarily. |The noise is loud, harsh and continueous. Matches the throttle/revs. It's a whirring noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, now I'm an expert on alternator belt removal I got it off in 3 minutes just by using a long pry bar to lever the tensioner:)

The noise is still there so it's definately internal to the engine. It sounds hollow and in the front cover or front of the engine. Are either of the chain tensioners an issue with these engine. It's covered 277'000 miles:) Is the balance shaft tensioner accessible from outside the engine?
 

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Sounds like it is indeed the balance shaft chain/sprockets. But at 277,000 miles!! you can hardly complain. Access can be got with the inner wing liner removed and although it is best to remove the head you might get away without doing it. At least one member on this list has simply removed the balancer chain and run the car without it but I think you have to do something about the tensioner to maintain the oil pressure.
 

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Was speaking to Jonsaab the other day and he said he drops the sump with the engine in the car, and just cuts the balance chain! It sounds a bit drastic

I recently replaced all the chain guides, chains and tensioners for timing and balance chains, but having read what other people have said here, I think next time I'd just remove the balance chain, to be honest. I don't think you need to do anything else if you leave the tensioner and shafts and all the other parts in place.

Oh by the way, in case you didn't spot it, Quasimotors has a good procedure for doing the chains. It's not too bad if you are methodical.
 
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