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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1999 Saab 9-5 with 168+K miles that has been experiencing intermittent stalling.
My 20 yr old car has its varying issues but this is the most annoying one that occurs intermittently and I'm finally getting around to having it addressed.

Here are my observations of when the engine will die:

1) Engine starts and then will die when engine is not warmed up
2) Engine dies when slowing down (at or under 30mph) or sometimes when making a sharp turn (usually right) at 30mph or below
3) Can die when driving at higher speeds if I downshift into neutral (its a manual transmission)

I've worked with my mechanic and he said he couldn't isolate the issue completely and it may need a new Throttle Body Accelerator (a new one he looked up was $850 and it wasn't worth replacing at that price)
Does this sound like the proper direction to go??

If so....which is the better of the affordable non-OEM replacement part... HELLA 007623191 or the STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS S20106?
Or should I find a used/refurbed part for less and gamble as i don't drive the car that regularly and probably won't keep it for 5 more years. (I mainly keep it because its a rare manual transmission car and its fun to drive once in awhile)

I've been quoted @ $ 100-120 USD for a throttle body installation.

Any pointers/information would be greatly appreciated.

Other outstanding issues with the car I need to address:
1) The turn signal switch won't click into place so I have to hold it to make the indicator stay flashing. Need to order part and take apart steering column.
2) Car has pulled an EVAP Code / Replace Filler Cap message for years (they couldn't isolate the issue and said it isn't worth the cost of fixing as it is not a daily driver)
3) Years ago needed to call AAA for gas (even though the Fuel Tank indicator showed 1/4 Tank). I haven't let the tank go below 1/4 since but I don't trust its reporting the correct level. I had a new fuel pump installed about 4 years ago when the car wouldn't start so I don't think that's the issue.
4) Coolant tank has spilled over when idling for a long time (methinks it would indicate a failing head gasket but my mechanic said he didn't see this) - They burped the system and it hasn't reoccurred yet......Maybe I need a new reservoir cap
5) Replace the in-dash Cup holder (which i realized i needed a 2nd set of hands to hold it in place in order to use a gooseneck attachment on my screwdriver for the screws.....or is it easier to just tack the dash off)
6) Sunroof won't open all the way as something plastic cracked on the right rail.
7) CD Changer needs to be re-Paired via TECH II
8) Key Fobs no longer locks/unlock car. Rear door locks don't respond to lock/unlock button.
 

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I agree with the possible fuel pump diagnosis. A shop can check the pump's current draw with a scope to see if there are any dead spots (a sign of failing pump).

Also check the turbo bypass valve. The small hose should hold vacuum when you suck on it. Air should only be able to pass between the two large hoses while vacuum is applied to the small one. Sometimes this will light the CEL and set a P1110 code but not always. shareit vidmate
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I brought it to my mechanic and they were unable to diagnose the stalling after a quick visit. As I don't drive the car much other than for local around town stops so I haven't been killing myself. I keep the car mostly because its a manual transmission and is fun to drive but I know that this repair is probably more than the value of the car itself at this point.

Recommendations:

1) Possibly the Throttle Body Accelerator. I've been looking for a good used one or for when local salvage yards get Saab 9-5s in. I may pull the existing one and have it rebuilt by BBA REMAN.

Before replacing the throttle body:
A. Clean the throttle body first, as sometimes carbon build up around the throttle body can cause intermittent stalling.
B. Check for any vacuum leaks and check the intake air hose for any cracks.


2) Another possibility is a problem in the fuel system and the car is losing fuel. I've been recommended to:

A. Check the Fuel Filter for an obstruction or filter clogged
B. Check the fuel pressure to see if it is 43PSI
C. Its possible the fuel tank is coming apart on the inside and there is something blocking the fuel pump causing it to stall.

3) Regarding the fuel level....Remove the tank and check inside and maybe replace the sending unit and the pump

As Saabs can be difficult cars to work on or find parts for....I have been considering bringing it over to one of the few shops that specializes in Saabs near me. My regular mechanic has done a great job over the many years but i think I am now only 1 of 2 customers left in his entire garage that has a Saab.

Would appreciate any recommendations or opinions on the issue....or if anyone can recommend good Saab Specialists in the DC/MD/VA area.

To clarify the issues:
1) The car can be hard to start with it finally catching on the 3rd rollover.....then maybe stalling again....then starting it again it idles normally
2) The car usually will stall most often when I am slowing down and shifting into neutral and letting up on the clutch or coming to a stop....so I've been sure to rev it a little when I shift into neutral. Also ive noticed that stalls when I am at a higher speed are more likely when I am making a right turn.
3) The car is definitely not registering the correct level in the fuel tank so I always fill up when it nears the 1/4 tank mark.
4) There can be a smell of gas present when I fill the tank all the way to the top.
5) The Check Engine light is on but I know that could be because of the Evap issue or a common issue with the fuel tank of the 99 9-5s.

Note: the Fuel Pump was replaced a couple years ago by a now closed former Saab dealership....and that is the 1st time the fuel smell issue occurred.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Does it only happen when you hit a certain rpm or any time you accelerate? My 99 Saab 9-3 had a bad crank sensor that the only symptoms Sarkari Result Pnr Status 192.168.1.1 were it bucking and basically cutting the fuel right under 3000 rpms.
It doesn't usually stall when accelerating or rev-ing.....usually occurs when slowing down and RPM nears 1000rpm and shifting to neutral
 
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