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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

Thanks for your help last time I posted. I got a new thermostat housing, and now it is not loosing any water, which is great :)

Having another problem now which I need a bit of help with.

The Check Engine light comes on quite a bit (tends to be higher revs, when the turbo should be boosting, does usually go off when revs drop)

There seems to be a big lack of power/torque. On the flat, it is fine but up hills it really dies and often needs a downchange to keep it moving

When you get to around 2k revs, the turbo kicks in for a second or so, then cuts out again.

There is no smoke at all, at any time when idling or driving. (even on start up)

(From Straight On) When you look at the engine bay, to the right there is a vacum hose that doesn't reach anywhere. Does anyone have a picture of that area, or knows where it is supposed to reach to?

I have been trying to research what this problem is, and I have found that it is a common fault with the EGR valve. I have seen a few pics and write ups on how to clean it up but none of the pictures look like my engine.

I have attatched a picture of my engine bay to this post. I hope that one of you guys can help me at all?

Thanks in advance.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5357242061/
 

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EGR Valve is the big round sliver thing centre-front (where the big turbo hose connects to the manifold) - check ALL the vacuum hoses around teh engine bay for good tight fit, no punctures or perishing, as they're all part of the same system so a leak in one circuit will affect the others too.

From memory (I don't have my 93 any more) the vacuum hose from the EGR valve should sun 1st to the EGR Control Solenoid (mounted to the right) than run from the solenoid to a T-piece, one leg of which connects the the vacuum pump, the other leg connects to the boost control solenoid mounted on the bulkhead and then on to the boost valve.

Also worth taking off the EGR (just two 10mm bolts and it lifts off) and giving it a good clean to make sure it's not gunged up. The valve has a fair bit of spring behind it but should move smoothly up and down into the main body, make sure the 'plug' on the end of the stem is clean as well as the mating surface in the manifold.

when clean, compress the valve, then cover the vaccum hose connector with your thumb, as you release the valve you should feel the unit suck against your thumb and will not fully release until you let the air back in. If this is not the case then suspect diaphragm failure in the valve (this happened to mine!).

If you do need a new EGR Valve - look for Vauxhall Vectra B or C rather than SAAB - you'll get a lot more hits and much better prices - it's the same part (A Wahler 1788). I got a 2nd hand one off E-bay for £25.

When replacing the valve you should feel the last 2 or 3 mm compressing the valve against the manifold mating surface before the flange is flush for bolting down.

Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi tynymynydd,
That has been a great help. Thanks very much.
I am going to do it in the morning.
I'm a bit baffled about the vacum hoses still as one of them was just cut. The one that goes to the Black Round Plastic thing to the right hand side of the EGR Valve. Do they need to go on in any particular order? Or as long as they are all attatched?
Will let you know how it all goes,
If anyone has a diagram/photos on how the vacum hoses go it would be a great help.
Thanks again.
 
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