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Aero went in for service -

Results :
1 split CV boot (15gbp + 1.5hrs fitting approx) - needs it for MOT

The service picked out a timing chain rattle and a water leak at the water pump. Didnt get anything done ...yet.

1) The car has never used any water ever - so will investigate on its return.

2) Surprised to have a chain rattle at 100k miles - I have always thought the car sounded very smooth - but I havent really revved it with the bonnet open. I'll get a good listen at the weekend but from what I read, I need to just rev the engine and listen out for either heavy or little rattle on the return? Is it 'loud' or do I need to be 6 inches from the engine to hear it?
 

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Hi faero

My 9000 2.3lpt Anniversary is going in to Jamsaab on Thursday for its first (well first under my ownership) service and general check over, so I am not too sure what to expect.

Driving it has not thrown up any problems other than the dreaded drivers seat not warming, but the switch itself does not light up at night, so hopefully that may be a small problem.

1997 CSE model
144,000 miles.
 

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Heh, mine had the same problems picked up on service 2 weeks ago! Amongst others


Water pump seems to be leaking where it mates to the engine, which is a common fault I think and quite easy to sort out (replace some O-rings or something...) rather than new pump time. When they told me, I thought they meant leaking round the pulley bearing!

As for rattle, just wanted to warn you... mine rattles at idle when cold - although rapidly getting worse. You can hear it sitting in the driver seat with the window open But yeah, other tests say rev it when hot so I dunno. Maybe depends which bit has worn?

Edit: forgot to say... 96,000 miles.
 

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The Carlsson is on 103k now and on a very cold morning does rattle from the chain end for about a minute or so. Then it is fine. However I currently have an alternator that is only 18 months old (genuine Saab/Bosch unit too) that is moaning from the bearings. I am upset as it cost the best part of £300. The local dealer are only interested in selling me another!
No thanks, now I have made my own drivebelt tensioner compression tool that end of the engine is no problem. All the bits came from B+Q and cost less than a £10.
 

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Don't worry I was making a set of instructions up on how to create one. As I say it costs very little to make one you just need a bit of welding work, which anyone with welding experience could do.
I managed to borrow a Saab tool for the job a short time ago and so I will post pictures and measurements of both the Saab tool and my tool when I have compiled them. I have had plenty of info from this forum so it will be good to put some back.

Regards,

Duncan
 

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I made a tool from a bit of scrap aluminium roof capping and a couple of bolts set at the distance apart shown in the Haynes manual. The only problem was I used 6mm bolts (as recommended on a site somewhere) from B&Q initially and they bent like twigs. Changed them for some 8mm engineering bolts which were laying around. They fitted the notches well and I had no problems.
 

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Don't worry, the Haynes tool is okay for holding the tensioner in place for a belt change but the one I made actually can compress and uncompress the tensioner as per the official Saab tool.
I will post the specs, hopefully over the weekend as I know quite a few people could use them.

Cheers,


Duncan
 
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