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Audio install

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audio install
25K views 26 replies 13 participants last post by  lizzard-t 
#1 · (Edited)
I have finally got around to creating this post,

Right ok where to start really -

I brought a 9-3 uneducated to then find out about the appalling audio setup you can actually get with a car such as this,

I had the 4 speaker setup with ICM1 unit up front and nothing else.



The audio upgrade began almost immediately when I brought the car in 2009 and has only been completed about 3 months ago due to time, money and experiments with the setup and this is the only way to do it properly well if you like decent bass.

Upgraded to ICM2
Added Aux in
Amp1 installed with the factory door speakers and centre (I resorted to this because for 1 up front 2 x 3.5" were never ever going to keep up with the rear and secondly to tap off the amp 1 output to give decent bass signals to the sub or subs).
2 x 3.5" replaced with - jl audio c2 350x well worth every penny, clarity is evident not over factory as I cannot even remember those I had JBL ones in the about £30 for the pair and I know they were miles better than factory and the JL's still stand in a league of their own.

Power cable from front to back is zero gauge which runs straight into a 20 Farad Lanzar opticap 200 to feed off to the sub amp
4 gauge front to back for 2 channel amp no power cap on this line as the power is minimal
Amps and Cap have remote on at ignition tapped from the rear fuse box

under the passenger seat




Electronics Technology Electronic device Electronic component Wire


Having problems with embedding images so going to just paste links to the photos.

Cache Cloc+D Line driver/Line out converter is connected under passenger seat tapping the power/remote/neg/audio output from amp1, RCA leads fed under the carpet, under rear seats to the sub (yes this was a pain in the backside to do yet paid off as everything is hidden which was the idea looking in the car everything is standard until you open the boot).

In the rear is as follows -

4" piles of $hite removed and replaced with Vibe black air component tweeters with inline crossovers
Black air 6x9's in rear shelf next to tweeters
Wire Auto part Technology Vehicle Electronic device

Auto part Trunk Vehicle Car Automotive exterior

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k594/deano93tid/SAAB/IMG_0651.jpg
Vibe Black box 2 2channel amp mounted upside down in the centre of the rear shelf
Vehicle audio Subwoofer Loudspeaker Audio equipment Car subwoofer

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k594/deano93tid/SAAB/IMG_0654.jpg
You can see the Boss Line out converter next to the amp which has been soldered to the existing rear out put and fed as a high level input into the amp which powers both the 6x9's and the tweeters.

This is the power cap mounted on the rear seat -
Audio equipment Technology Electronic device Guitar amplifier Electronic instrument

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k594/deano93tid/SAAB/IMG_0667.jpg

I took this pic to show what it looks like behind the rear seats and to see the 0 gauge connecting to the cap -
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k594/deano93tid/SAAB/IMG_0669.jpg
Wire Technology Electric blue Electronic device

You can also see the amp on the rear of the sub which is connected to the Cloc+D under Passenger seat and you can also see the Vibe fast plug so the sub can be removed in seconds to give back a full boot should it be needed.

These beauties give a decent amount of bass to say the least -
Vehicle audio Subwoofer Car subwoofer Audio equipment Loudspeaker

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k594/deano93tid/SAAB/IMG_0650.jpg
Active dual 12 inch subs which also have a remote adjust up front under the drivers side dash to adjust the crossover and gain of the sub which is very handy as some songs require that extra bit of bass.

On the head unit up front bass is set to zero and brought back through the crossover to the sub so none of the speakers distort even on full volume which you couldn't listen to in the car unless you wish to go deaf, I took the car to an event and had the boot open windows down etc and the sound was amazing from the outside I had to even question a friend on where it was coming from stunned to find it being my car.

Please let me know what you think of the install,

Should anyone wish to recruit myself to help with their install PM me bare in mind distance as I am Hertfordshire based.
 
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#3 ·
The boots in the 9-3 are slightly more sound proofed than that of a Saxo where the boot is in the car. The bass with the dual 12 is decent and dependant on how it is set over powering but way back there it doesn't make it unbareable, I had to resort in double as 1 wasn't enough with the crap signal it was getting but once fed off amp1 1 sub was more than enough but I had already brought the dual 12 so they were going in regardless.
 
#4 ·
I didn't mean the subs were crap! I know they are good, I still have my two in the loft for when the baby out grows a push chair!

I meant the capacitor, and not just your one, all capacitors for amps/subs in cars are pointless.

When the bass drops, the capacitor reacts and powers the amp, and then the battery reacts and powers the cap and the alt then has to work even harder to charge the battery and the cap. I would replace the cap with an uprated alt so it's not under as much strain.
 
#6 ·
How are you finding that lanzar amp, as a company they have come out with some poor crap to say the least, although they do make some ok shallow mount speakers.

What i really want to ask is how is the noise?

Do the speakers pic up noise from engine/alternator power cable from battery etc?
 
#7 ·
The lanzar amp is not actually an amp it is a capacitor, and it seems to be working perfectly, very well built with quite a decent chrome finish as to expect with a £200+ power cap.

No noise at all I have tried to keep the audio leads away from any power leads to avoid the interference where ever possible.
 
#9 ·
That was the look I was going for stock appearance well until you open the boot but theiving scrotes won't see a nice head unit etc when they look through the window.

I have given it some thought and due to the amount spent on mine and the time taken etc I don't think I am going to let it go just yet maybe in a couple of years but I was looking at a BMW 320D E90 M sport coupe or saloon.

I had a single 12 before but it didn't provide enough bass until I gave it the correct signal and by this point I had already brought the dual 12" so dual it is lol.
 
#10 ·
Deano, i need to have a chat about connecting an ipod with a wired conection. I seem to remember you posted up a link to the kit, is there a 'how to' guide for audio-cretins (me) or at least one with pics and large writing???
 
#18 ·
sorry i know this is an old thread but i have the aux option but not the cable in the arm rest console. lookin at the original and the cheaper otion, the original has the proper female clip connector to fit in the console whereas the other non genuine version has just the male aux connection.
 
#21 ·
I did the genuine aux in upgrade today and it was simple, managed to get 10% discount and got it for £46. Fitted it myself in the dealer's car park (taking 5 mins as I had removed the panels, the climate control unit and freed up the head unit at home before going) and then twisted their arm for a techy to come and set it up for me on their plug in computer thing. It is great, now need to sort out the speakers. I have already upgraded to 6x9 Alpines in the rear and some JL 3 inch 2 ways in the dash. Am going to go to my car music man and see what he suggests which I am sure will be cheaper than using the original 7 speaker amp1 upgrade. He has suggested an amp under the passenger seat and 9's in the doors, will let you know what I do
 
#22 ·
The amp will be a tight fit under passenger seat and most likely your rear passengers will kick the connections, you can route the cables to the boot to avoid this or buy a very small amp - Vibe Litebox is tiny and is the only one I know off the top of my head.

9's in the door? They will not fit without grinding part of the door off, the factory size is 6.5".
 
#23 · (Edited)
hi got a 54 reg 93 tid want to add an amp have got the icm2 unit but ther is the stock saab amp2 connection in the boot can i use this connection to wire a speaker to rca convertor to or not plus wheres the best place to wire the amp remotes to install a vibe slick a0 2 channel amp to run vibe slick 6x9's and a vibe slick a7 to run 2x slick 15 subs i know i only need one rca convertor as i can use the rca out on the vibe slick a0 amp to feed the imput into the vibe slick a7 amp. have been told that if i wire the rca convertor to the stock amp plug i could blow the system is this true or not any help would be much apriciated
 
#24 ·
http://www.saabscene.com/forum/threads/131520-SAAB-AUDIO

Pictures of where to get remote on for amps here
The kinda power you'll be running will require a separate feed from the front so there's no need to use amp2 connector
As you have wiring for amp 2 I'm guessing you have amp1 fitted (under passenger seat) if so I would use the output of amp1 into a speaker - line converter (low - high impedance converter) for the audio
 
#25 ·
Gonna have to read all this again, as I'm really finiki bout dash damage (Butter knife) ........ I have nail scratch marks on my glovebox opening button & they drive me shitless........ I'll tell you all about my mental disturbance re-Tech 2 & line in if you like ........ Via a written report .......

Lets not get on about the cocky awful semi silver trim on the auto gear/function selector ....... Sheesh I'm beside myself bout that ....... Really I am ..... I mean ..... Whoooooooo The Fk ?
 
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