100K and HeadBolt re-torque - Page 3

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Thread: 100K and HeadBolt re-torque

  1. #31
    Saab Afficionado
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Coventry, UK.
    Hi Racingsnake,

    We understand your concern. One would not want to disturb the head/block alignment in any way especially when loosening all bolts before re-torquing.

    An alternative method some Saab specialists/experts use, is..:
    .. to loosen, then conduct the 3 stage re-torque one bolt at a time. This way all other head bolts are maintaining force except the one being loosened/re-torqued.

    i.e. The standard torquing sequence should be followed, but one bolt loosened/re-tightend at a time.

    Just re-torquing all bolts with a 85 to 90Nm setting may work on a well used head gasket, but worth noting that stage 3 (1/4 turn) is not intended to increase torque, but stretch the bolt to maintain torque stability. Like you, I share the reluctance in doing the stage 3 turn on a well worn head gasket with high mileage though, as we've mentioned.

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  3. #32
    Yeah,I agree with you. I've pencilled it into the 100k service,ha ha....

  4. #33
    Yep i did the one bolt at a time thing a few months ago. Slacken off then do the three stage tightening on each bolt in the correct sequence.


  5. #34
    This might be a silly question, but...
    Do you still need to do this at 100k if the dealer did the head gasket at 78K ?

    My 97 lpt has just turned 100K a couple of weeks back..

  6. #35
    As far as I can see, if the head gasket was replaced at 78k then the bolts would have been (re)torqued to correct torque then. I would make a note to re-torque them at 178k but bear in mind that this will be the 3rd torquing of the bolts then (assuming not done in the interim) and it may be worth considering replacing the bolts as well as I read in a previous post that the bolts are only designed to be torqued 3 times.

  7. #36
    How much has a new HG and timing chain cost you guys (fitted)? I'm thinking of getting mine done but would like to know how much it's going to sting me from Saab...



  8. #37
    Am I glad I looked on here, changed oil and filter yesterday (every 5000 miles on my schedule) and notice slight oil mark on front RH corner of head. So out with torque wrench this weekend and buy angular guage before then.

  9. #38
    Saab Afficionado
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Isle of Wight
    Hope you looked at all the posts on here. It's OK if you know the full history of the car, but if I ever had to do it again, I would opt for a new set of bolts, rather than risk one snapping.

  10. #39
    I am going for a new set of bolts, the file I have on the car shows that it had a head gasket changed by its first owner (I'm the third) at about 40k so at 131k I don't want to risk it!
    Thanks for the acvice.

  11. #40
    Saab Anorak
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Tunbridge Wells, England
    I need to do this too. The car has 112k. The PO had it 2 years without any major work, and didn't think it had been done before. At that mileage it seemed unlikely.
    Having searched and read all including the pinned thread, has anyone tried the US Saab recommended method? Just sounds safer than full torque plus 90 deg.

  12. #41
    I've now got all the bits to do this (from PFS don't tell the sponsors!) but has anyone drained the coolant or had any problems after replacing head bolts from not draining it?
    Just a thought that it could possibly seep in when a head bolt is removed, albeit temporarily.

  13. #42
    Saab Afficionado
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Coventry, UK.
    Good question - If you ensure engine is cold (v-important) and remove expansion tank cap to relieve any pressure in the system, then there is no chance that the coolant will seep across the gasket if only one bolt is loosened/re-torqued one at a time.

  14. #43
    Thanks Paul, I actually did it yesterday morning having left the car unrun since the afternoon before, didn't think to take cap off expansion tank but as it was dead cold should be OK. I've given it a good run since and it seems to have cured the oil leak (I know famous last words and all that) and no signs of any cooling problems, perhaps I just worry too much.
    I'll let you know if there are any developements.

  15. #44
    Hi! It seems like you guys use the "old truth" when you re-torque the bolts.

    Here's how it should be done:

    1) 40 Nm
    2) 60 Nm
    3) 90 degrees

    You begin with the release of the first screw, "number one" and then drag to 40 Nm, then release "number two" and drag to 40 Nm, then release "number three" drag to 40 Nm .......and so on.
    NOTE! You should therefore loosen respectively screw before re-torque with 40nm.
    Then when all the screws are 40nm, do the full "circle" with 60 Nm starting with "number one". When it's done, do the same thing again but with 90 degrees. NOTE the 90 degrees is pretty heavy so use a long angular torque gauge. And make sure the screws are in good shape (I replaced mine to be sure and to get the updated ones)

    And there's also a "new" bolt-type came as a permanent change in 1997, so if your car is older than that you should consider changing your bolts to the newer ones at the same time. The advantage of the newer type is that they give a more even clamping force over the whole surface, and that they hold clamping force better in the long run.

    The new type is at the bottom and the old at the top.

    Sorry if you guys already knew this.. I just wanted to make sure you did


  16. #45
    Motor Mouth
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Marlow, Buckinghamshire, UK
    Thanks for the information, especially about the new bolts. Unfortunately, I can't see your first picture. I wonder if everyone else can?

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