Headlining - Page 3

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Thread: Headlining

  1. #31
    Full throttle mark e's Avatar
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    Doing the sunroof is a bit fiddly because you have to take it out. I didn't renew the plastic trim, I simply stuck the cloth in place on to the frame and the trim back over that- it did the job. We won't however mention the fact that I forgot to allow for the brackets and ended up with them showing ON TOP of the fabric

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  3. #32
    The best option is to get a peice of old retainer and one of the trim suppliers I use will have something that will do the Job. its unlikely that the part is unique to SAAB

  4. #33
    Saab Afficionado
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    The best option is to get a peice of old retainer and one of the trim suppliers I use will have something that will do the Job. its unlikely that the part is unique to SAAB[/b]
    Well, if you do (or someone else does) manage to get it done reasonably easily then do let us know (with pictures if possible) as it would be nice to finish the job properly as the rest looks so good . I'm sure I'm not the only one.

  5. #34
    Full throttle mark e's Avatar
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    This looks like it would do the job


  6. #35
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    This looks like it would do the job

    [/b]
    Thanks.

    I'll have a look at the car at the weekend (working late tonight and tomorrow) and see if it looks do'able, although I'll almost certainly wait until summer to do it.


  7. #36
    Saab Afficionado
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    Well, a little update on our headlining material which I replaced last autumn. It's started to sag a bit already .

    I used the Dunlop heat-resistant spray glue (using approx 2.5 cans so we didn't skimp on glue) and followed the instructions to the letter. I thoroughly cleaned the old headlining to get a good base for the glue and it looked perfect once it was done, but I've just noticed that the material is drooping in a few places. When I did the same job on our old 900 (using heat-resistant but not sprayable glue), it lasted until I sold the car many years later. I really don't know where it's gone wrong, but happy I'm not.

    Anybody have a good way of re-affixing the material without it looking too bad? I'm guessing I'll have to remove the headlining and start again, but I'd rather not have to buy all new material. Maybe I can do half the lining (side-to-side or back-to-front) so as to keep the material in the right place before doing the other half.

  8. #37
    To add to the Steve Lewis post, the different headlinings are as follows:

    3 Door
    1. 3 door with interior light by passengers door piller, with wide sunroof hole
    2. 3 door with interior light by passengers door piller, with narrower sunroof hole
    3. 3 door with interior light by passengers door piller, no sunroof hole
    4. 3 door with center interior light and narrower sunroof hole
    5. 3 door with center light and no sunroof hole.
    Add to these 2 different styles of rear piller trim as the seat belt hole changed position.

    2 Door (these are different as the rear edge is different from the 3 door.)
    Same 5 different types as the 3 door

    5 Door - again same 5 different types

    4 door - again same 5 types and again different on the rear edge.

    That makes a grand total of 20 different headlining cards and 8 different rear quarter cards , and that doesn't include the earliest cars from 1978/1979 that use different cards and quarters again!

    Dan.


  9. #38
    I am never surprised when I hear that a DIY one has started sagging.

    I have done over 70 headlinings now and I would not consider doing one at home.

    I do them at a specialist automotive trim shop with industrial materials and a trimmer does the "clever bit".

    Fair play to anyone who has or is willing to have a go but don't be surprised if it does sag.

    I have several c900's 2 of which are in storage in damp lock ups and both of those headlinings are still up. In fact the worst one I have done is outside and it leaks (I now ensure the rear drains are clear) but even though it continually gets wet it is still exactly where it should be. Why haven't I re done it ? Because I am pretty sure it will be a real sod to clean off the brand new headlining material .. the old ones glue/sponge has by now gone off and powdery... mine won't be like that.

    best wishes Steve

  10. #39
    Has anyone seen the roof lining installation information and products for sale at Paradise saab? Seems like they have done all the gard work

  11. #40
    My Trimmer does Saab 900 headlinings and they really come up well:

    http://c900se.informe.com/viewtopic....231&highlight=

    I can find out a price if need be - he is in Cambridge.

  12. #41
    Saab Newbie mwade12's Avatar
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    Hello all. Just done my C900 2 door saloon with mixed results. The headlining looked very poor before I started and whilst it does not look 'showroom fresh' now it does at least look better. Thought I would add a few lessons learned.

    Car used - 1990 2 C900 2 door Saloon Non Aero T16;

    http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Z-i2e...feat=directlink

    1, Sounds simple but make sure you have PLENTY of room to manoeuvre. And the room is clean.

    2, Remove all roof 'furniture' and place in a container, don't leave them rattling around the car as you will lose them in a crevice somewhere (rear offside seatbelt bolt is still rattling around under the back seat) Mirror can be fiddly if you have the light behind it. You will need to take the clear plastic cover off the light, remove the torx bolt from here and then disconnect the connections underneath.

    3, The only way (I think) to remove the headlining from a 2 door saloon is through the boot. This means that you will have to loosen the lining, then move both front seats forward and push it out of the boot.

    4, If you have 2 cans of glue then use it all, don't be sparing with it.

    5, The C pillars are a right fekking nightmare to remove the old material as the mouldings will be invariably goosed. So be careful when pulling it off as the underlying hard stuff may have stuck to the material and will result in the moulding cracking and falling apart.

    6, You need to remove all the old material from the headlining i started with an assortment of tools, utensils and cutlery to do this. In the end I used a Plastic Ice Scraper for the big bits and a small white plastic spoon for the fiddly bits. On reflection, I would not use the Ice Scraper again as it caught the fibre of the board in several locations causing it to gouge it, not good and will require filling the next time.

    7, I also used a Black and Decker hand held mouse for the finish. There are a good few pads that you can get for the mouse. I used one the looked like a plastic kitchen scourer. I think it's intended porpoise was for metal polishing. Did the job well and got into the detail areas well.

    8, Take your time over the C pillars, mine now look like poo and I aint happy with them and so I will be re-doing them at some point. The bottom most 'spur' of both the cards broke due to their fragility and will require replacement now. I guess that the best way to do this is cut the material close enough to the actual shape of the C pillar to ensure that there is not a huge amount of material to deal with. I did not do this and so I ended up wresting with a large amount of material in proportion to the moulding. not good. Take your time and make sure you have enough material to play around with.

    9, Lay out the headlining. I put mine on a door resting on a couple of trellises. did the job OK. make sure the material is square to the headlining as I did not and was left with about 12 inches of material on one side and about 2MM on the other. Again, use plenty of glue and spray on both surfaces. Let it dry for a minute or so before you present the glued surfaces. I would do this about 10 inches at a time ensuring that you leave enough 'slack' in the material to get in all the pre-formed shapes on the headlining.

    10, Cut of the excess material around the edges leaving enough material to stick about 2 inches on the other side. Glue the edges down and use a Staple gun to tuck in the messy bits and also to add some strength around the edge of the card. You can get a cheap staple gun from Poundstretcher or such shops.

    11, Make ikkle cuts there the roof furniture will go, dont try to cut the exact shape just make a little cut big enough to poke a finger through.

    12, Replace the C pillars, swearing all the time at your misfortune for cocking them up and already planning your replacement.

    13, Fumble the Seatbelt bolts and drop them behind the back seat, ensuring that they drop all the way down to the lowest point possible ensuring that your ham fists cannot reach them therefore rendering your rear seats useless and cutting your fingers in the process. Repeat swearing from step 12.

    14, Pick up newly lined headlining and offer up to the boot. Gently push the headlining through the hole and rest it about halfway in. Go to the back of the car and lift and push the headlining the rest of the way in.

    15, Look, with horror and rage at the blood now smeared across your new headlining as a result of bleeding fingers detailed in step 13. Curse loudly and bemoan your misfortune and rage at the fickle Gods of Automotive DIY (bet he is on GM's payroll anyway the [email protected])

    16, Wedge Headlining on top of the C pillars and move to repeat with the A Pillars. Be careful as it is easy to damage the headlining at this point trying to wedge it atop the A Pillars. Replace the grabrails (or whatever they are called) as this will take the pressure off the A pillars and then work backwards to ensure it is secure.

    17, Done, now try to reconcile your mixed feelings about the job you have done and wonder whether it would have been better just tp pay someone else to do it...

  13. #42
    Saab Newbie
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    portsmouth
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    11
    I've just finished re-trimming my 2 door headlining so thought I would post some points to note if you are thinking of giving it a go.

    First of all, make sure you follow the really good photo based guide on the paradise saab webpage, makes life much easier.

    The roof card passes through the boot comfortably but only if the parcel shelf is removed. I used a reasonably stiff nylon brush and kitchen spatulas to remove the old foam. I would've liked to remove all the old glue but this could take a day in its self and the new glue seemed to adhere on top well anyway.

    Top tip for fitting the card back in the roof is to use the rear window seal to hold up the card while it rests on top of the front a pillars. This let's you fit the c pillars last which means you don't have to flex the card as much.

    Overall I was quite happy with the job, it took the best part of a day and a half - time very well spent in my eyes. The material is the darker from Wollies which does have blue-grey tint. The original is more likely to be the lighter grey. See pics below.

    http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp269/i...us/c6cdac34.jpg

    http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp269/i...us/da44cfc6.jpg

    http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp269/i...us/52aa749c.jpg

    http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp269/i...us/e2605869.jpg

  14. #43
    Saab Newbie
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    May 2006
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    London UK
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    Re: Headlining

    Quote Originally Posted by DB900 View Post
    Has anyone seen the roof lining installation information and products for sale at Paradise saab? Seems like they have done all the gard work
    Alas Paradise Saabs is no more but their great headlining guide is still available in the archive here;
    https://web.archive.org/web/20120916...rim-guide.html
    Last edited by peva; 11-29-2018 at 05:48 AM.

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