EGR Valve on 150 TID

[Andrews_9-3]

Hi all. I've had a 150 diesel for a couple of weeks and it was throwing up an error code for a failed EGR Valve. On inspection, I could see that the valve appeared pretty new and on closer inspection I found that the connector had worked loose.

I assume the initial sluggish response from the engine is due to a partially blocked valve but the dealer won't replace it as its new. I've seen cleaning sprays advertised, so how simple is it to take the valve off and clean the carbon deposits out of it?

Any help / guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Andrew

[Frazzly]

Its very quick and easy. If you follow the guide for the 8v tid engine as per the sticky on the top of the page its just the same for our engines.

I stripped mine, cleaned it and had it back to together in less than 15-20 minutes just the other day.

Very messy job admittedly with carb cleaner so wear gloves

[Andrews_9-3]

I stripped the EGR down this evening and it was fairly well blocked wit carbon deposits. I've doused it with cleaner and then refitted it. The car ran smoother but was still a little hesitant at low revs.

I removed the valve again and found that the valve was still a little sticky, so doused it again and it seems to move freely again. I'm shortly going to refit it and I'll take it for a drive tomorrow.

If the problem persists am I looking at a new EGR??

[ramy2k]

I've cleaned my 57 TiD 150hp for the 3rd time earlier today (1st 2 in the past 12 months). The EML has been on for a couple of months at this stage but the dealer told me that the fault was linked to a replacement EGR valve. As I had cleaned it shortly before this, I let it go then but the power started dropping this week and the car became sluggish at take-off so I went at it again. Today it got a full clean (EGR/Manifold) and I checked the solenoid in the EGR as well. This was getting a bit stuck so I freed it up with carb cleaner. Other than this not functioning, is there any other reason why I'd need a new EGR valve? It is only 4 years old and now well cleaned, etc.

Anyway, the oval gasket fell down into the engine and didn't reach the sump cover unfortunately. I tightened everything up minus the gasket. Car is accelerating much better but diesel fumes are entering the car and the engine is whistling like hell. You can see some smoke coming up when you hit the accelerator if stationary. How does one rectify this? If anyone had photos, it'd help a lot.

Is there any harm driving without the gasket and how do I now solve the exhaust fume problem? Apart from the obvious (fumes/gassing), is there any risk of more damage to the car with this hissing/whistling sound?

Also, I reset the battery again but as predicted, the EML hasn't gone off. Seeing as it has been on for 2.5 months now, is it likely that it'll go off with a few days driving?
Thanks,
Ray

[Andrews_9-3]

I've put a post up on Vectra-c.com as they share the same engine. Apparently there may be issues with a breather pipe contained in the slam panel - I'll check mine tomorrow.

As for the Gasket, you'll need a new one or you will end up being gassed with diesel fumes - take a look on ebay - they are only pennies to buy.

[ramy2k]

Yep was thinking.....is it definitely the lack of a gasket that is causing the fumes/noises?

[HappySaab22]

I've cleaned my 57 TiD 150hp for the 3rd time earlier today (1st 2 in the past 12 months). The EML has been on for a couple of months at this stage but the dealer told me that the fault was linked to a replacement EGR valve. As I had cleaned it shortly before this, I let it go then but the power started dropping this week and the car became sluggish at take-off so I went at it again. Today it got a full clean (EGR/Manifold) and I checked the solenoid in the EGR as well. This was getting a bit stuck so I freed it up with carb cleaner. Other than this not functioning, is there any other reason why I'd need a new EGR valve? It is only 4 years old and now well cleaned, etc.

Anyway, the oval gasket fell down into the engine and didn't reach the sump cover unfortunately. I tightened everything up minus the gasket. Car is accelerating much better but diesel fumes are entering the car and the engine is whistling like hell. You can see some smoke coming up when you hit the accelerator if stationary. How does one rectify this? If anyone had photos, it'd help a lot.

Is there any harm driving without the gasket and how do I now solve the exhaust fume problem? Apart from the obvious (fumes/gassing), is there any risk of more damage to the car with this hissing/whistling sound?

Also, I reset the battery again but as predicted, the EML hasn't gone off. Seeing as it has been on for 2.5 months now, is it likely that it'll go off with a few days driving?
Thanks,
Ray

These systems are fault prone and one of the issues is air leaks in the system that 'upset the apple cart'. Problams with the EGR can lead to issues with the DPF. One of the tihings that a workshop will do when diagnising these issues it to run a 'smoke test'. a Device that pumps out smoke os connected to the air inlet and fills the engine and air intake system with smoke. Air leaks are then obvious.

I'd guess that without the gasket you'll have air leaks so I'd replace the gasket.

[ramy2k]

These systems are fault prone and one of the issues is air leaks in the system that 'upset the apple cart'. Problams with the EGR can lead to issues with the DPF. One of the tihings that a workshop will do when diagnising these issues it to run a 'smoke test'. a Device that pumps out smoke os connected to the air inlet and fills the engine and air intake system with smoke. Air leaks are then obvious.

I'd guess that without the gasket you'll have air leaks so I'd replace the gasket.

Thanks. I've ordered the gasket from ebay @ €8.40 (£4 + postage). EML has gone off 5 days after resetting the battery so I was surprised at that seeing as it had been on constantly for about 3 months....seems to have saved me purchasing a new EGR valve that the dealer reckoned I needed @ €355! So it appears that by freeing up the carbon in the solenoid pin (in the egr itself) and ensuring that it could move freely, I solved this one.

Let's hope the diesel fumes and air leaks are sorted out once I install the gasket. If I've any further queries, I will post here again.

[ramy2k]

Re: 2008 Saab 93 1.9TiD Linear SE 150bhp (57 plate)

Hi everyone,

The EGR gasket arrived and I fitted same...unfortunately, it doesn't appear to have made any difference. The engine is still whistling when you tap on the accelerator, increasing as the revs go up. When idling with the fan on (and without recirculation), diesel fumes are still entering the cabin.....there's no problem whatsoever when the car is moving. So I'm guessing that it is linked to an air-leak somewhere but can't detect it.

So I have made sure everything is tightened (EGR holding down bolts - horizontal and vertical). I also attached a cable tie and black duct tape to secure the now loose black covering around the 1" diameter pipe below the oval gasket/EGR. This was done @ top & bottom. Idea was to contain any fumes that may have been escaping as the 'smoke' seems to be rising from this area.

Another area that I opened up during my 'EGR clean-out' process was the large 2" diameter pipe that connects near the EGR valve perpendicularly. I feel that this is fully secured now but could I have opened a 'flap-valve' or something that is redirecting the diesel fumes?

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I could do next apart from getting fleeced @ a dealer? If anyone had photos indicating the parts that I could look at, it'd be quite helpful as well.

Thanks in advance,
Ray