Painting a front lip spoiler
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Thread: Painting a front lip spoiler

  1. #1
    Saab Anorak
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    merseyside
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    570

    Painting a front lip spoiler

    Hi Guys, my aero front lip spoiler was split so got a new ready primed one fairly cheap.
    I wiped down the lip spoiler to clear any grease etc and got 3 very nice coats of nocturn blue on it from a can . Paint went on very nicely and not a single run or oversparay.

    Anyway the finish does look very flat and not as smooth or shiny as I expected but I sort of expected this as its the clear coat that makes the difference.
    However question is do I need to do anything else to the spoiler before applying the clear coat.I am going to leave it for a week to let the paint harden etc but thought maybe I should give it the once over with 1500 or 2000 wet and dry before clear coat.

    I aint to bothered if its not up to factory standard as its o the bottom of the car but I do hope it can bear some scrutiny. Any thoughts on the best way to get a good final clear coat from a can.


    At least the spoilers not going to be flapping about though.

    Cheers Dave

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  3. #2

    Re: Painting a front lip spoiler

    spray ppainting can be affected by a lot of things including humidity and temperature and direct sunlight. final coats of laquer should make all the difference. If the paint looks good, no runs, holes/patchy or marks then clean it down with panel wipe in a lint free cloth and apply the laquer, no need to leave it a week, the following day should be fine.

  4. #3

    Re: Painting a front lip spoiler

    Found this which may be of help -

    Ensure the surface is clean, make sure any repairs are smooth and completed, spray a light coat of etch primer, then flat with 800 wet and dry using ordinary soap tp stop the paper clogging, wipe down with panel wipe and then put 3 light coats of primer on, flat off with 1000 grade wet and dry, panel wipe and then use a tak rag to make sure the surface is immaculate, put a light dusting coat of colour on, dont try to completley cover the panels yet, flat off with 1000 wet and dray and again use soap, panel wip and tak rag ans then apply 3 coats of colour leave to thoroughly dry and then flat off with super fine paper, use soap, panel wipe and tak rag surfaces then apply 2 coats of colour, allow to harden off for a few days then polish with some g3 compound or other fine compound then polish and you should have a brill paint job



    or this -

    How To Prepare & Spray Paint your Panels
    Ok now this is by no means the rants of an expert. I am merely passing on what I have learnt through trial and error in the process of re-spraying my car. Please feel free to add your comments and advice.

    There are many methods in which to go about preparing and painting panels - this is just one of them and I hope it proves to be useful for others. I'll walk you through the processes I undertook in preparing the front 1/4 panels for my Datsun 1600 (let me tell you they were in really really bad condition).

    First up you'll need a few things to get started.

    Tools & materials Needed

    1. Sand paper (120 to 400grit paper for sanding paint)

    2. Wet & Dry paper (400 to 800grit wet and dry paper)

    3. A couple of different sized sanding blocks - depending on the panels you are working on, ie how intricate the panels are - if it's say long panels then large say 200 to 300mm blocks would be the go.

    4. Thinners - just cheap general purpose thinners that you can use to clean up your tools and the body work before painting and applying bog.

    5. An applicator for applyin the bog/putty. This should be flexible - this is the key - plastic or metal doesn't matter except that i've found that metal applicators tend to last alot longer.

    6. A tin of bog/putty to get those panels nice and smooth.

    7. primer and primer putty and acrylic thinners

    Now you have all the pieces necessary let's get started.

    <img src="http://www.modifiedcarforums.com/ima...mbs/tn_03.jpg" alt="preparing your panels for spray painting"/>

    preparing panels for bogHere's a couple of pictures of the panels I started with (front 1/4 panels from my Datsun 1600). They were in reasonable condition rust wise(no rust what so ever) BUT there was ALOT of bog on them and dints galore.

    So the first step was to strip back as much of the existing paint and bog as possible. It is usually best to take the whole panel back to bare metal. But in this case the existing bog was in great shape and there was no rust to note on either of the panels.

    I used a grinder with a wire brush on it and 120grit sand paper to remove all the paint and bog I required - this sand paper also serves as a good means of roughing up the surfaces for the bog/putty to adhere to.

    prep work on panels preparing panels for spray painting
    <img src="http://www.modifiedcarforums.com/ima...mbs/tn_04.jpg" alt="preparing your panels for spray painting"/> <img src="http://www.modifiedcarforums.com/ima...mbs/tn_05.jpg" alt="preparing your panels for spray painting"/>

    Now that you are happy that the panels are cleaned up enough inspect them closely looking over where the dings are and how big they are. I found on my panels that there were pretty much small dings all over both panels (well 80% of the surface). Some were minor but they were there none the less.

    Now is the time to get out your thinners and a clean rag, wet the rag with the thinners and wipe down the surface of your panels. A clean surface is required for the bog/putty to adhere to the panels correctly. Also remember to clean up the work surface you are using so as not to get dust and crap all over your nice clean panel(s).

    Applying Bog

    <img src="http://www.modifiedcarforums.com/ima...mbs/tn_06.jpg" alt="how to apply bog or filler to your panels">

    bogging up panelsTo be honest this is most definitely not an easy thing to do. Applying bog is almost an art form (and i'm no bloody artist). If you have the time it maybe worth practicing with an old panel. There's no real harm in just applying the bog to your panels - but if you put it on too thick then it will involve a whole lot of work sanding it all off again.

    I like to look over my panels and give myself an idea of which areas are going to need more bog/putty and section it off into areas. It's hard to work an entire panel at a time as the bog starts to dry and is impossible to work.

    So mix up your bog (guess at the amount you'll need per area - you'll get better at it as you go along) and remember to add enough of the hardener. Too little hardener and the bog will never dry and be impossible to sand - too much and it will begin to harden before you've finished working it. Nice stuff isn't it? Don't worry you'll find a happy medium relatively quickly.

    Apply the bog to the areas you need it in thin layers and try to smooth it as much as possible as little dags all over the place make sanding a bit of a pain in the ass. If at all possible try not to add to much putty on panels.

    <img src="http://www.modifiedcarforums.com/ima...mbs/tn_07.jpg" alt="how to apply bog or filler to your panels">

    Let the bog dry(I usually leave it over night) and then sand it back. Check for low spots and repeat the process above. Try using different grit sand paper until you are happy with the layers of bog. I usually use 120grit to get the big dags and high spots out then drop to 180grit and finally finish it off with 400grit.

    When sanding try long strokes and try to criss cross the strokes. This for me is helpful in keeping curves such as on the 1/4 panels. Long strokes with a sanding block also help to get rid of high spots and get the bog nice and smooth and most importantly FLUSH with the rest of the panel.

    It may take 8 or 10 applications of bog to get this right - this all depends on the thickness needed and also how much experience you have with applying bog. It's a tedious boring process so try working in 1 or 2 hour intervals.

    Applying first Layer of Primer

    Ok so most of the worst of it is over - but now it's time to give your panels a lick of primer. Clean up your surfaces carefully with thinners and a clean rag. If possible see if you can hang the panels somewhere for painting. Also remember that you'll get overspray all over the place so cover up anything where you will be painting that you do NOT want to get covered in primer.

    Give 3 or 4 generous coats of primer - why so many coats and thick? You'll be sanding back the panels with wet and dry paper after.

    <img src="http://www.modifiedcarforums.com/ima...mbs/tn_10.jpg" alt="primer coating your panels">

    primed panelsLet the panels dry for atleast 24hours - then wet and dry sand them - starting with 600grit paper and moving onto 800grit after you've got most of the bumps and crap out of the paint. Once you've finished sanding dry off the panel and inspect it closely.

    Checkout if your bogwork shows up, there are pin holes etc..<-My panels before beginning to wet and dry sand them.

    panels spray painted panels primed

    <img src="http://www.modifiedcarforums.com/ima...mbs/tn_09.jpg" alt="panels spray primered"> <img src="http://www.modifiedcarforums.com/ima...mbs/tn_08.jpg" alt="panels after priming">

    Clean up your surface again in preparation for the primer putty. Now grab your primer putty and apply it generously to ALL areas that have pin holes, look out of place etc... Depending on how bad the bog work is, apply atleast 3 generous coats every 10 mins.

    It's not necessary to cover the entire panel with the primer putty, only the areas that need it (this stuff isn't cheap so use it sparingly). You should end up with panels that look something like this.(pics below)

    <img src="http://www.modifiedcarforums.com/ima...mbs/tn_02.jpg" alt="applying primer spray putty"> <img src="http://www.modifiedcarforums.com/ima...mbs/tn_01.jpg" alt="how to apply primer putty">

  5. #4
    Saab Anorak
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    merseyside
    Posts
    570

    Re: Painting a front lip spoiler

    Thanks guys, some usefull info there deano. top stuff.

    I will wait till Saturday next to complete the final coats but as earlier I was well impressed with the spraying I did, The can used had a funny little spray button on it not at all like the normal aerosol.It did give a fine spray as well.Not as harsh as the normal aerosol cans.Therefore I think it helped in avoiding runs etc.I have noticed with all metallic finishes that the finish is always a bit flat until the clear coat,maybe something to do with whats in the paint to produce the glitter effect,Anyway happy with the painting lets hope the clear coat makes the difference.

  6. #5

    Re: Painting a front lip spoiler

    You should be "flatting" the paint using high-grade wet'n'dry between each coat of the top colour, but NOT the last coat of colour. Then apply several coats of lacquer, without flatting in between coats. A week or two after you've finished doing that, use Farecla G3 cutting compund and a mop attachment fitted to a drill to "cut" (i.e. smooth) the lacquer.

  7. #6
    Saab Anorak
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    merseyside
    Posts
    570

    Re: Painting a front lip spoiler

    Interesting about the lacquer jezz.I didnt think you would have to touch that. I have a very fine Menzerna finish polish,would that do?

    To be honest I didnt flatten between the 3 coats of paint as I thought they were very thin layers.I could flatten and paint again as you say but am very tempted to just go with a few layers of clear coat assuming this is what will bring the shine up. Given its the spoiler and will probably be toast in a week or so anyway I am thinking conservatively on this. Mind you if the clear coats dont work it may well be a case of back to the drawing board!!!!! thanks again jezz

  8. #7

    Re: Painting a front lip spoiler

    The reason for "flatting" the layers of paint as you go, is that paint doesn't have a smooth finish as it goes on the bodywork - it's basically lots of tiny spots of paint laying on top of each other. Without the flatting, the roughness to the paint increases with each layer. As it's on the front of the car under the bumper, you can probably get away with it as it is, given that no one will be looking at it too closely.

  9. #8
    Saab Anorak
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    merseyside
    Posts
    570

    Re: Painting a front lip spoiler

    My thoughts exactly jezz.But I am a bit of a perfectionist and it niggles a bit that I cant get it at least 90%, You should see the job I made of the black wing mirror surronds. You couldnt tell they were painted by me. Did everything you detail here so it is a great job.

    Thanks for the info though on the paint .I had no idea it was so important after each layer.

    Cheers Dave

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