P1312/P1334 Not Fixed w/Replacement DIC?
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Thread: P1312/P1334 Not Fixed w/Replacement DIC?

  1. #1
    hi... first time here requesting some wisdom (more saabs in UK/Europe than US, so genius quotient is higher as well!

    have an '01 9-3SE w/100k... last month while on a road trip from San Francisco to LA (about 400 miles) my AC compressor failed (failed bearing)... had compressor replaced by a local LA Saab shop (indie, highly recommended) and they also replaced the fuel filter and flushed AT system... car ran great in LA for the next few days, but at end of drive back to SF, after stopping for gas, the Check Engine Light (CEL) came on while starting car... seemed to run okay, so I continued home and had code read a local smog shop... P1334... called LA Saab shop (now 400 miles away) and they said nothing they did would cause this... likely DIC or plugs... had the smog shop clear codes and I installed properly gapped set of new OEM (NGK) plugs... also purchased used TK3.6 DIC from ebay (yea!)...

    the car ran great for about a month, but last week car stumbled (but didn't actually stall) at a stop sign (first time this has ever happened in 100k miles). no CEL, but next morning when starting the car the CEL came back on. pulled fuse 28 to clear light and installed ebay DIC. everything was okay for 2 days but then CEL came back on while starting the car...

    took to local Saab shop (not dealer) who found same P1334 and P1312 codes and said they might have been left over from first DIC (?!?), cleared codes and said all was okay...

    next morning (you guessed it)... CEL back on...

    now i can purchase a new DIC (for about $350 here in the US, if i can find one!) but it feels like guessing... i suppose i could have replaced a bad DIC with another bad DIC and the fact that this all started after the service for the AC and fuel filter replacement is a coincidence...

    any thoughts on how to really zero in on the cause?

    (btw, car seems to run okay on the highway... lots of power and gas mileage is where expected... but feels a bit 'rough' to me at idle even when CEL is off)

    many MANY thanks in advance!
    robin

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  3. #2
    Full throttle
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
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    Welcome!

    Those codes on a black Trionic 7 engine are showing a misfire on all four cylinders. One one code for cyls 1&2 and the other for cyls 3&4. But the system has separate wires for cyls 1&2 to the ECU and cyls 3&4 to the ECU. So the only common parts are the DI and the ECU. Unless two wires between have broken in the same place.

    Without a diagnostic computer it's impossible to do a full check. But the first thing is to check if the plugs are sooty and that a misfire is actually occurring.

    Then, if you're going to do a trial and error fix, the wires are the cheapest check, if you unpeel the loom or put a multimeter on them and wiggle the loom. Otherwise you'll have to start replacing things, and the plugs are the cheapest followed by the DI unit.

  4. #3
    thanks for the greeting!... okay, this is making sense...

    i -did- install a new set of plugs (NGK OEM plugs) when the DIC first threw the code, and the previous plugs looked just fine (a little worn, but very clean)... so i don't think anything is fouling the combustion, but i can certainly check again...

    since two DI's have given the same error (though, the second DI was purchased used and so may have had its own problems) i'm wondering if the problem is a bit further up(down?)stream... such as the wiring...

    i like the idea of checking the wires (i'm wondering if there's a intermittent broken ground wire or some such)... the cable to goes to the DI to the big plug seems serious (and scary!)... is that what you're suggesting i check... i have a DVM, so i can do a continuity check... is there some place you can point to where i can see what i should be looking for?

    thanks again!
    robin

  5. #4
    Full throttle
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    I'll have a look when I get home tonight. There are pin numbers on the DI connector and also the pin number on the ECU that can be checked for continuity.

    But the ground fault sems a good choice as it seems unlikely that two "live" wires would fail simultaneously.

    To be honest, I would still suspect the DI as ebay is always a risk buying secondhand electronic stuff. CAn you borrow a good DI and try it?

  6. #5
    Full throttle mark e's Avatar
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    I'd go with the DI as well- I've got one that runs fine but generates both DTCs

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