remote key - immobilizer failure
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Thread: remote key - immobilizer failure

  1. #1
    Saab Newbie
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Strasbourg, France
    Posts
    11
    Hello, and happy new year to everybody!

    I have trouble with the immobilizer system since I changed the Saab autoradio without unplugging the battery
    and the engine running !
    (I know, I shouldn't had done that but it was too cold to work without heating !)
    The turn signal fuse was blown. I replaced it.
    Everything was OK until I get to my home and get out of the car and was unable to lock the doors with the remote key
    (FOB? is that the name of it ?)
    So I locked the car with the key, but then couldn't open it with the remote and start the engine afterwards.
    I could see that the transmission green signal was OK on the remote key, but it didn't lock/unlock the doors and the immobilizer.

    I finally started the engin by turning the ignition key, and pressing 4 TIMES on the lock/unlock button of the remote.

    But as soon as I take the key out of the steering wheel column and press the lock button of the remote it has no effect on the locker and the immobilizer is turned on immediatly again.
    When I don't do anything after drawing out the key, the immobilizer turns on after a normal delay.

    As long as the key remain in the steering column it works.

    Has something possibly beeing reset ?

    I read different topics on this forum about similar problems (but not exactly).

    I still have to try to drive the car to another place (may be due to new electric or electro-magnetic fields in the neighbourhood as the car didn't came around here since june '06) !

    Anyway, if someone has a manual of the way the alarm works ( I never had any) and the report codes
    (I've been told that the red LED flashes a certain number of time to tell if there has been an intrusion or a fault and on wich door)
    I would be really greatfull !

    Sébastien

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  3. #2
    Saab Junior 0000000000ps's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Titirangi, Auckland
    Posts
    36
    Pass.

  4. #3
    Saabisti
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Maidenhead, UK
    Posts
    140
    Salut Sébastien,

    You've probably got this working by now but if not... I'd try disconnecting the battery and leaving it for 20 minutes (or an hour) to reset everything. Then shut all the doors and press the remote unlock button on the remote five times (long presses) - this will pair up the remote and the car again. The first four presses should appear to do nothing - that's as it should be. Lock and then unlock the car one more time with the remote.

    Hope that works.

  5. #4
    Motor Mouth
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Kippen, Stirling
    Posts
    2,245
    Sébastien,

    It seems to me that your immobiliser is doing exactly as it should. The problem you have is that the doors are not locking / unlocking using the remote. It is normal for the immobiliser to remain 'un - activated' as long as the key remains in the ignition and only to 'activate' after removal either when asked to do so by pressing the button or after the appropriate time delay. Four or five presses is normal to resynchronise the system, for example after replacing the battery in the fob.

    I would check that the fuse for the electric locking mechanism ( look in the fuse box lid for which one ) is OK. Do the doors lock when you press the centre console switch ? Do all doors lock when you turn the key in the drivers door, or just that one ?

    I have an additional question on this subject.

    Has anyone taken one of these fobs apart ? My ONLY one is playing up in that I need to prize it apart almost every time I use it. I found a dry joint where one of the pins from the battery comes up through the circuit board. It now works slightly better but I generally need to press down on the opposite corner of the board whilst pressing the left button. It usually needs 4 - 5 presses to operate the locks so this would indicate a loss of power to the board for more than the few seconds usually required to change a battery and a re-alignment sequence taking place.

    As far as I can see I need to completely desolder the two contacts from the battery compartment to enable me to lift out the board and inspect the other side. Anyone gone this far in ? I am a bit hesitant 'cause I'm really stuffed if I make a mess of it not having a spare.

    Paul @ Kippen

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