My wash bottle is dumping water. Couldnt get os wheel off because of a mangled wheel nut. Am I likely to find a simple disconnect or a bit more? Any advise appreciated.

Anyone successfully upgraded dip headlamp bulbs? Dont rate mine. Wiring looks meaty enough Cheers

You could try removing the front o/s undertray as the reservoir is above this. I think there are 2 check valves (like those below the windscreen), 1 in each supply for the front and rear screens. Suggest you read recent posts about undertray fasteners first tho`......

Thanks.....you must be telepathic because two of these fasteners just wont come off despite molegrips, chisels levers etc. Off for another go.

Paul

I recently had the o/s/f inner wheel arch liner removed (to replace the auxilary drive belt) in a '92 CSE. The washer bottle is located under the the evaporative loss cannister (the charcoal cannister the collects the petrol vapours from the tank and releases them into the inlet track to be burnt off). I think access is only practical when the inner wheel arch liner is removed. If it is still there you may be able to see what the problem is from below, but you probably won't be able to get your fingers in. There are two washer pumps with a rubber seal sitting in the holes in the side of the bottle(on the side next to the wing, i.e. outside rather than engine bay side)! The higher located one is the RWW feed. The lower is the windcreen and the headlight washer feed. From the pump is about 3" of washer hose. Then a straight in-line connection (possibly a non return valve, nrv) a 3" piece to a T-piece (which I think should be a nrv but isn't on mine (which may be the reason for a delay in water on the screen). The T piece leads forward to the headlight washers and the other one parallels the RWW hose up towards the top of the inner wheel arch liner and appears in the engine bay.

I had a failed nrv in a '89 Carlsson which effectively drained the washer bottle over a period of a few hours. You should be able to get a nrv for about £1.

This link shows the nrv (check valve)which is likely to be the culprit. Ignore the location of the washer bottle. The car is a '89 9000.
http://quasimotors.gar.net/chekvav.htm

HTH

Gavin

I recently had to remove the indicator lamp and headlight. I noticed that the washer bottle can be seen when these are removed, but not sure about good access to the t-piece nrv from there but may be worth a try if all else fails.
I did have loss of water some time ago due to a leaking nrv and accessed from the wheel arch, but later found much better access from the corner front tray panel ( if you can get it off ).
Harvey

Back to PaulH original query about headlights. This reminded me of a niggling problem with seating the bulbs in their holders.

I noticed that the insulation sleeve to both lights had melted, and put this down to a poor earth connection, as both bulbs were loose, even with the springs in place.

Having removed 3 screws, the holders, which seem to be made of something like Mazak, appear to have been distorted perhaps by the combined action of the springs and heat, so that the springs are no longer applying sufficient pressure to achieve a good earth. I suspect that they will crack if I try to bend them back into shape, as they are quite badly distorted.

Has anyone come across this, and if so, are the holders available separate from the headlamp units ?

Hi Paul,
With regard to upgrading the dip lamp bulbs, a friend did this to his '92 CD and although the beam is better, it's still not terrific. This is due to the reflectors going dull, they should be bright and mirror like. I've renewed mine at some cost, with the result that the beam is better with standard lamps than my friends with 80 watt dip/ 110 watt main.
HTH.