Just purchased a Saab '96 9K full spec and all original. Had to replace both doors on the Drivers side and afterwards I'm having problems with central locking......it's not working at all! Fuse is intact, I;'ve tried removing it and refitting it thinking it may reset it that way but to no avail. It will not work off the fob, from any of the doors or from the centre switch.

Another problem is the ACC, it is never hot or even warm......now I know the stepper motor flap for the heat mixer may have failed but how do you complete a calibration? I thought it was press auto button then bottom ventiliation button at the same time...now when I do this 0 comes up but rather than go through the testing 3 seconds later it goes back to showing the temperature selection! Am I doing something wrong?

Reversing light do not work, now I've read this and the central locking issue could be linked but where do I start to find out?

Occasionally the seat belt fasten light illuminates whilc driving (even though all belts are buckled tight!).

First thing to do would be to unplug the 2 actuators in the replaced doors and see if this brings the CL back to life. It was getting dark when the doors went on so I may well have connected one up wrongly? If the actuators arent to blame then it can only really be the Central Locking control module that has failed.

If teh ACC panel comes up with a 0 then that means it ahs nbo faults and i would assume that it doesnt feel the need to re-calibrate itself? What is the temperature gauge reading? If the thermostat has stuck open (and they do quite often) then you will struggle to get any heat in the car until you have stationary for a ages and allowed the heat to build up. A cold engine will also mean the ECU will overfuel all the time in an attempt to get the engine up to temperature.

Seat belt light probably means dirt and debris in the buckle on the drivers side, upsetting the switch or the load sensor switch in the passenger seat is acting up.

Ive got various spare bits kicking about and would be happy to send you some bits to try out if you want me too


Paul (aka 9000Parts)

Interesting what you mentioned about the seat belt buckles, will get the carb cleaner out on them.

As for central locking think I'll take a look at the wiring, if that fails I'm thinking that by coincidence the locking ECU is up the swanny (possibly associated with poor battery charge technique by previous owner as mentioned me before).

ACC wise I've noticed that when you first turn it to HI the air is hot but then after about 5 seconds goes cold/barely warm again. I'm wondering if the ACC unit hasn't again taken a battering from poor battery charging. Remember another ACC 9000 I had watched get used to jump another car and the terminals were put on incorrectly....all illumination of the ACC then failed!

As for reversing lights whereabouts is the actual reversing lightn switches on the automatics? I've changed one on a manual but never an auto (had the fuse blowing for the rear windows on a CSE manual once, proved to a be a knackered reversing light switch).

Right, after a holiday I managed to get the locking working again but I suspect the passenger side actuator is on the way out as it's a bit temperamental. I'll replace the two defective actuator motors and then if it's still temperamental I'll take the locking ECU out and attempt to re-solder it.

The more pressing issue is the heater which is barely luke warm at best. I've calibrated, checked the stepper motor mixer flap....all OK. Now having spoken to the previous owner he's sent me the receipt for the head gasket he had replaced last November and claims that the heater stopped being hot after returning from this work. He took it back to the specialist and asked them to flush the coolant through as there was still some oil in mixed with in with it but it still blew cold.

I'm contemplating flushing the system again as the coolant is still a little contaminated (nothing too bad but still noticable in the header tank), if this produces no results where do I go next?

Done some more research tonight and it seems if I probably need to take the dash top off to check for sure if the mixer servo is working or not.

Think I'll change the ACC relay just to rule that out.

Mr Scrappy,

the reversing light switch is down at the bottom of the gear selector. There are two switches, one either side, and I presume one prevents you starting in gear and the other's the resersing light, although both seem to have many wires. If I recall, they are also expensive.

You could flush/back flush the heater by removing the hoses from the engine end and getting a hose pipe going, just in case there's enough crud gone around to nearly block up the entrances to the tubes in the heater matrix.

I think you can see whether the hot/cold flap is working by looking in the aquarium, so no need to remove the dash top.

I think you can see whether the hot/cold flap is working by looking in the aquarium, so no need to remove the dash top.[/b]

Mark,

Thanks for replying, I've had the plastic vent cover off beneath the wipers but the mixer flap was working fine. I've been reading that they sometimes they can still do that but the flap on the other end can sometimes fail and this can only be seen with the dash top off.

What exactly do you mean when you say the flap is working fine? The other end is a metal arm attached to the motor which is unlikely to fail (but not impossible of course). With the aquarium open, move the setting from Lo to HI and the arm should move from one extreme to the other. Do it a few times to be sure, and then try a few settings in between and you should see it move in between. The motor that drives the flap does fail and can give intermittent problems before it fails totally.

What exactly do you mean when you say the flap is working fine? The other end is a metal arm attached to the motor which is unlikely to fail (but not impossible of course). With the aquarium open, move the setting from Lo to HI and the arm should move from one extreme to the other. Do it a few times to be sure, and then try a few settings in between and you should see it move in between. The motor that drives the flap does fail and can give intermittent problems before it fails totally.[/b]

No it's moving fine, one thing that is noticable is that when first moving the ACC to HI you get some what I would call "hot" air for about 2 seconds and then it's back to cold/barely luke warm.

Which would suggest that you have insufficient flow through the heater matrix, hence my suggestion to flush it in case oily gunge from the blown head gasket is blocking the little tubes.

Which would suggest that you have insufficient flow through the heater matrix, hence my suggestion to flush it in case oily gunge from the blown head gasket is blocking the little tubes.[/b]

As mentioned the previous owner took it back the the Indy and asked them to flush it but it seems to have made no difference.

Yes but when you mention flushing to most people/garages, they assume the radiator, rather than the heater matrix.

Yes but when you mention flushing to most people/garages, they assume the radiator, rather than the heater matrix.[/b]

Well I believe he'd mentioned the symptons to them before dropping it back. Has anyone used Holts Radflush with good results?

Checked the ACC relay today and noticed they aren't the same as the Fuel pump relay :o(

Has anyone used Holts Radflush with good results?[/b]

Yes- the two-part kit is particularly effective at flushing crud out of the system.

Checked the ACC relay today and noticed they aren't the same as the Fuel pump relay redface.gif([/b]

I took a look at this and although the relays look different and have different part numbers they are mechanically very similar. At least one of my cars has an ACC relay (the metal cap one) fitted in place of the Plastic Cap Fuel Pump relay.

That can go in the "strange, but true" category!

Surely the fuel pump relay has a couple of features that are unlikely to be found in an ACC relay:-

1. When you turn the ignition on, the fuel pump relay runs the pump for a few seconds to get fuel pressure up to ensure prompt starting.
2. The fuel pump relay then only switches on when the engine is turning, and so in the event of a crash when the engine stops, the pump stops so that if a fuel pipe is broken, fuel isn't pumped out so reducing the chances of you burning to death.

Using an ACC relay for the fuel pump therefore might not be the smartest idea.

Mark - I am pretty sure that is all ECU controlled.

Neither the FP relay or the AC relay have a timer in them so I will have to go with Grentarc in that the relays are all ECU controlled.

Right, Central Locking now working fine (thanks Paul) though the kerb light on that rear door doesn't work. ACC relay changed but unfortunately that has made no difference, I guess I'm going to have to go down the flush matrix route. :(

Post Office must be behaving itself this week then? Silly question, but have you checked the bulb in the puddle lamp? If thats not the problem then check the bulb connectors arent corroded and bend them towards the bulb. Alternatively, check youve got 12Vdc on the connectors.

I have took a closer look at the kerb light and tried new bulb, a new door open switch all to no avail. I've then got the multimeter out and theres no voltage going to the wires. Strange when the rest of the electrics to the demister fan and central locking is working fine.

Next week I shall be flushing the matrix and I'm contemplating using sticking the Holts flush in the system and running it for a few days, then draining and jubilee clipping a hose pipe to the matrix pipes and leaving for a period of time.

You will of course flush the matrix in reverse.

If its not the bulb then my finger would be pointing at the door close switch. Always seems to be the OSR one that fails too? Pull the switch (T25 Torx) then disconnect the wires and short the 2 connectors together. If the light goes on and off then its the door switch. If that doesnt cure it then there is a fault in the wiring somewhere. The wiring loom in that door is from the original car so did you check to see if the dor lamp ever worked? I cant rememer if it did or not, I was more concerned with it getting dark before we finished.

If its not the bulb then my finger would be pointing at the door close switch. Always seems to be the OSR one that fails too? Pull the switch (T25 Torx) then disconnect the wires and short the 2 connectors together. If the light goes on and off then its the door switch. If that doesnt cure it then there is a fault in the wiring somewhere. The wiring loom in that door is from the original car so did you check to see if the dor lamp ever worked? I cant rememer if it did or not, I was more concerned with it getting dark before we finished.[/b]


I was in the same mindset too so I'm not sure, I'll speak to the previous owner to confirm.

Do you think leaving the Holt's in the cooling system for a day or so (with a decent journey being undertaken), then draining and flushing the matrix via a hose pipe jubilee clipped to the matrix pipework sound like the way to get any oilly contaminants out.

Personally I would reverse flush the matrix to ensure that you're getting flow through it, and then do the radflush routine. After all, there's no point using a flushing agent if it can't get into the heater matrix because the tube entrances are blocked with oily goo.

Personally I would reverse flush the matrix to ensure that you're getting flow through it, and then do the radflush routine. After all, there's no point using a flushing agent if it can't get into the heater matrix because the tube entrances are blocked with oily goo.[/b]

To be fair both pipes to the matrix are hot but I guess that doesnt guarantee the coolant's getting around the whole matrix.

I used Radflush on a Viva I bought from a friend for my brother many years ago. It overheated on the way home and I had to drive with the heater on full and windows open. When I took the drain plug out of the block nothing ran out, it was solid! Used Radflush as on the can (can't remember the details, idle hot and a short run IIRC), took the plug out again and it all ran out. Easily drained and flushed and never had any more trouble.

Interesting, sounds like the route I need to take.....Vauxhall Viva.....now you're talking!

hi,

Also used radflush to good result many, many years ago, heate worked again for first time in years, lovely and toasty warm for a few weeks.... until a lorry wrote the car off.. Doh!!

Anjum

I used Radflush on a Viva I bought from a friend for my brother many years ago. It overheated on the way home and I had to drive with the heater on full and windows open. When I took the drain plug out of the block nothing ran out, it was solid! Used Radflush as on the can (can't remember the details, idle hot and a short run IIRC), took the plug out again and it all ran out. Easily drained and flushed and never had any more trouble.[/b]


Back in '71, my first car was a Viva HA! And I had the same thing happen, driving it home with the heater full on and open windows on a hot summer day as the engine over heated. Engine seized a few days later, it had only been firing on two and a half cylinders, according to what was left of the valves when the head came off...

I had a '68 HB SL90 with the 'bright red power pack' in the early '70s, about 60HP IIRC! It was a great little car, loved that stubby little gearshift. The one above was a bit embarrassing, an HB DL bought from a friend for my brother and overheating on the way home with it. Ran OK after that flush though. My 19 year old son currently runs a '75 HC in great condition and loves it.

Still got to get round to flushing the system through, will hopefully get it done by late next week. Would there be any issues if I was to replace the current green coolant with GM red coolant? Having done a bit of research it seems as long as I flush out all the old green stuff I should be fine but just wanted a second opinion.

Still got to get round to flushing the system through, will hopefully get it done by late next week. Would there be any issues if I was to replace the current green coolant with GM red coolant? Having done a bit of research it seems as long as I flush out all the old green stuff I should be fine but just wanted a second opinion.[/b]

Looking on Elkparts I see they are selling genuine Saab coolant and it's not labelled GM and it's green.

Is anyone using the red GM stuff in their 9K?

I take it no one is using GM coolant! Planning to complete this flush tomorrow so any last advice opinions before I start.

The S....................,

I just use quality anti-freeze of the day and never bother what colour it is. As long as it's a modern one rated for alloy, steel and all the usual materials in the cooling circuit, go for the cheapest. Half***s do some good deals. I don't bother going to the 50% level. Even in Scotland the weather never gets that bad !

Paul @ Kippen.

Well I've flushed the matrix today and to be honest no real oilly gunk came out. I jubileed clipped an hose pipe to both matrix pipes for an hour each, I've not put everything back together and then flushed with holt's yet but looking at how fresh the water was that came out I'm now beginning to think the heat problem is a flap issue in the bowels of the heater :confused:

Completed the flushing and Holt's treatment and unfortunately still blowing luke warm/cold. Looks like I'm going to have to get the top off the dash and take a look at the heater box workings.

Hey Scrappy, you're really getting a lot of pleasure out of this 9000, aren't you?

Hey Scrappy, you're really getting a lot of pleasure out of this 9000, aren't you?[/b]

The heater is the real bugbear, especially with the colder weather now upon us!

If my memory's correct, you can see the hot/cold flap operating arm in the aquarium. Changing the ACC setting from HI to LO should cause the arm to move from one extreme to the other. I think I've read somewhere on here that the operating arm is pastic and can fail. I think there may be a repair kit available, if not then araldite may be your friend.

If it turns out to be the motor that drives the flap, it's quite difficult to get at with the dash top off. It's one of those things that would be simple on a left hand drive car, but our instruments get in the way.

Already check that and it is working.......hence I'm going to have the dashtop off and have a closer look. :confused: